The North Devon CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The North Devon Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Devon (England) -- Description and travel
That quaint tower, a deliberate copy of one on the Drachenfels, owes
its being to General Rawdon, who resided here from about 1840, and,
finding his æsthetic taste outraged by a naked iron water-tank erected
on posts, built this pleasing feature to harmonise with the scenery. An
iron basket, still remaining, was provided to serve for a beacon, and
now that Lynmouth is lighted by an installation of electric glow-lamps,
a light is shown from it every night.
But let us halt awhile to learn something of the rise of Lynmouth, as a
seaside resort. At the close of the eighteenth century, the place was
a little hamlet, dependent partly on a precarious fishing industry,
and partly on the spinning of woollen yarn. But presently, fishing
and spinning were at once and together in a bad way, and Mr. William
Litson, the largest employer of the spinners, found himself and his
people out of work. It chanced at this time that the new-born delight
in picturesque scenery, that had already set the literary men of the
age scribbling, had brought some few travellers even into the wilds
of North Devon. They fell into raptures over Lynton and Lynmouth:
raptures rather dashed by the discovery that there was no sufficient
accommodation for them. Litson, pondering upon these things, and
with wits sharpened by threatened adversity, took opportunity by the
hand, and in 1800, opening what is now the “Globe” inn as a hotel of
sorts, and furnishing the cottages on either side for the reception of
visitors, became the pioneer of what is now the great hotel-keeping
interest of the two towns. Litson prospered in an amazing degree. Early
among his patrons were Robert Coutts, famous in those days as a banker,
and the Marchioness of Bute; and the stream of visitors grew so rapidly
that by 1807 he was able to open the original “Valley of Rocks” hotel,
up at Lynton. The adjoining “Castle” hotel soon followed.
About the time when Lynmouth and Lynton were thus first rising into
favour, the poet Southey came this way, and wrote a description that
has ever since been most abundantly quoted. But it is impossible not to
quote it again, even though the comparison with places in Portugal is
uncalled for, absurd, and entirely beside the mark.
Thus, Southey: “My walk to Ilfracombe led me through Lynmouth, the
finest spot, except Cintra and Arrabida, which I have ever seen. Two
rivers join at Lynmouth; each of these flows down a combe, rolling
over huge stones, like a long waterfall. Immediately at their junction
they enter the sea, and the rivers and the sea make but one uproar.
Of these combes, the one is richly wooded, the other runs between two
high, bare, stony hills, wooded at the base. From the Summerhouse
Hill between the two is a prospect most magnificent--on either hand
combes and the river; before, the beautiful little village, which, I
am assured by one who is familiar with Switzerland, resembles a Swiss
village.”
[Illustration: LYNMOUTH AND THE TORS, FROM THE BEACH.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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