The North-West Passage by land: Being the narrative of an expedition from the Atlantic to the Pacific, undertaken with the view of exploring a route across the continent to British Columbia through British territory, by one of the northern passes in the Rocky MountainsMilton, William Fitzwilliam, Viscount
History
The North-West Passage by land: Being the narrative of an expedition from the Atlantic to the Pacific, undertaken with the view of exploring a route across the continent to British Columbia through British territory, by one of the northern passes in the Rocky Mountains
Milton, William Fitzwilliam, Viscount
British Columbia -- Description and travel; Northwest, Canadian -- Description and travel
We found the sleeping-cars a wonderful advantage in our long journeys,
and generally travelled by night. A “sleeping-car” is like an ordinary
railway carriage, with a passage down the centre, after the American
fashion, and on each side two tiers of berths, like those of a ship.
You go “on board,” turn in minus coat and boots, go quietly to sleep,
and are awakened in the morning by the attendant nigger, in time to
get out at your destination. You have had a good night’s rest, find
your boots ready blacked, and washing apparatus at one end of the car,
and have the satisfaction of getting over two hundred or three hundred
miles of a wearisome journey almost without knowing it. The part of
the car appropriated to ladies is screened off from the gentlemen’s
compartment by a curtain; but on one occasion, there being but two
vacant berths in the latter, Treemiss was, by special favour, admitted
to the ladies’ quarter, where ordinarily only married gentlemen are
allowed--two ladies and a gentleman kindly squeezing into one large
berth to accommodate him!
At one of the small stations in Wisconsin we met the first Red Indian
we had seen in native dress. He wore leather shirt, leggings, and
moccasins, a blanket thrown over his shoulders, and his bold-featured,
handsome face was adorned with paint. He was leaning against a tree,
smoking his pipe with great dignity, not deigning to move or betray
the slightest interest as the train went past him. We could not help
reflecting--as, perhaps, he was doing--with something of sadness
upon the changes which had taken place since his ancestors were lords
of the soil, hearing of the white men’s devices as a strange thing,
from the stories of their greatest travellers, or some half-breed
trapper who might occasionally visit them. And we could well imagine
the disgust of these sons of silence and stealth at the noisy trains
which rush through the forests, and the steamers which dart along lakes
and rivers, once the favourite haunt of game, now driven far away. How
bitterly in their hearts they must curse that steady, unfaltering,
inevitable advance of the great army of whites, recruited from every
corner of the earth, spreading over the land like locusts--too strong
to resist, too cruel and unscrupulous to mingle with them in peace and
friendship!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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