The North-West Passage by land: Being the narrative of an expedition from the Atlantic to the Pacific, undertaken with the view of exploring a route across the continent to British Columbia through British territory, by one of the northern passes in the Rocky MountainsMilton, William Fitzwilliam, Viscount
History
The North-West Passage by land: Being the narrative of an expedition from the Atlantic to the Pacific, undertaken with the view of exploring a route across the continent to British Columbia through British territory, by one of the northern passes in the Rocky Mountains
Milton, William Fitzwilliam, Viscount
British Columbia -- Description and travel; Northwest, Canadian -- Description and travel
Masses of ice, the size of a man’s fist, formed on Cheadle’s beard and
moustache--the only ones in the company--from the moisture of the
breath freezing as it passed through the hair. The oil froze in the
pipes we carried about our persons, so that it was necessary to thaw
them at the fire before they could be made to draw. The hands could
hardly be exposed for a moment, except when close to the fire. A bare
finger laid upon iron stuck to it as if glued, from the instantaneous
freezing of its moisture. The snow melted only close to the fire, which
formed a trench for itself, in which it slowly sank to the level of the
ground. The steam rose in clouds, and in the coldest, clearest weather,
it almost shrouded the fire from view. The snow was light and powdery,
and did not melt beneath the warmth of the foot, so that our moccasins
were as dry on a journey as if we had walked through sawdust instead of
snow. The parchment windows of our little hut were so small and opaque,
that we could hardly see even to eat by their light alone, and were
generally obliged to have the door open; and then, although the room
was very small, and the fire-place very large, a crust of ice formed
over the tea in our tin cups, as we sat within a yard of the roaring
fire. One effect of the cold was to give a most ravenous appetite for
fat. Many a time have we eaten great lumps of hard grease--rancid
tallow, used for making candles--without bread or anything to modify
it.[4]
When well sheltered by woods, and with an enormous fire blazing at our
feet, sleeping in the open air was pleasant enough. Tents are not used
for winter travelling, as the huge fire could not be made available.
On arriving at the ground we selected for a camp, every one set to
work as quickly as possible. One unharnessed the dogs and unpacked
the sleighs; another collected dry logs; a third cut fine chips, and
started the fire; whilst the fourth shovelled away the snow in front
of the fire with a snow-shoe, and strewed the bare ground with pine
branches. Then all squatted down, smoking and superintending the
cooking of supper, the hungry dogs seated round, waiting anxiously for
their share. A pipe and talk followed, and then each rolled himself in
his blankets or buffalo robe, covering head and all, placed his feet as
near to the fire as he dare, and slept. All huddled together as closely
as possible, and when silence had reigned some time, the dogs crept
softly in towards the fire, and lay between us, or at our feet. Before
sleeping, however, it was necessary to secure out of reach of the dogs
not only provisions, but snow-shoes, harness, and everything with any
skin or leather about it. An Indian dog will devour almost anything of
animal origin, and invariably eats his own harness, or his master’s
snow-shoes, if left within his reach.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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