The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
"Lord! your honour," rejoins the son of the soil, "what's the use on
'em in these days? I'd sooner see an acre of these 'ere swedes any day,
than them there towers and dungeons. Them swedes afore you 'ool carry
a score o' fine wethers any month in the year, and plaze ye to look at
'em, but as for them flint walls, you may look at 'em for ever and a
day 'fore you find enough o' green for a garnish"; which was indeed a
practical rural way of looking at things.
The summit of those old walls has nowadays a very charming green
garnish of grass, rendered parti-coloured by wind- and bird-sown
wallflowers and vigorous wildings; but more lusty than these are the
young sycamores, that have struck deep roots into the walls and bid
fair to grow into large trees.
It is still possible to follow the greater part of Colchester's old
walls along the queer alleys that run above or below them. Eld Lane,
out of whose elevated course the steep descent of the old postern,
now known as Scheregate Steps, goes, is situated along the summit
of the south wall looking over towards St John's Green, where,
facing a wilderness of scrubby grass, broken bottles, and the sordid
house-sweepings of the modern town, the gatehouse stands, all that is
left of the proud mitred Abbey of St John. By that green is the frowzy
little church of St Giles, patched up in so atrocious a manner from the
wreck it was after the siege of 1648 that to call its "architecture"
merely "debased" is to deal kindly with it. A dilapidated boarded
tower is a feature of the exterior; the interior provided with a flat
plaster ceiling, like that of a dwelling-room, and filled with flimsy
pine-wood pews, painted and grained. Dust and stuffiness reign within;
dust and broken crockery without. And yet, although so unlovely, it is
not altogether with satisfaction that an elaborate design is seen for
rebuilding the church from its foundations, together with the notice,
"It is earnestly hoped that contributions will be given toward the
restoration fund." "Restoration" is not the word, for the design is
alien and quite unlike anything that formerly stood on the ground.
Rather let the place be repaired and cleansed and its unbeautiful
details preserved as a characteristic and shocking example of how
they looked upon ecclesiastical architecture in the dark days of
churchwarden- and carpenter-Gothic. It is here, under the north aisle,
that those two valiant captains, Lucas and Lisle, are laid.
For the church-towers built of Roman bricks, and for other evidences
of that ancient Empire, let the explorer seek, and, presently finding,
think himself, if he will, an original investigator: it is a harmless
attitude, if at the same time unwarranted by fact. Let us to other
matters, and then, leaving the town, hie away for Ipswich.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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