The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Colchester is, of course, famous for its oysters, and has been ever
since the Roman occupation. In the estuary of the Colne, and the
Crouch, and in the oozy creeks of the Essex shores, the Colchester
"natives" still grow up from infancy to maturity and feed upon the
semi-maritime slime, as they did close upon two thousand years ago, and
doubtless long before that. If we may judge from the stupendous heaps
of oyster-shells discovered on the sites of Roman towns and villas,
near and far, to say merely that the Romans were fond of oysters would
be far too mild a term. They must have almost lived on oysters, dreamt
oysters, and thought oysters. No wonder Colchester, whence the finest
and the largest supply came, was so prosperous a Roman colony.
Although the fishery brings wealth to the town, it is more than a
mile away and makes no sign. Those who might think that, because of
it, Colchester should obtrude oysters at every turn and oyster-shells
should strew every street, would be vastly disillusioned. But
beside its oyster fishery, other Colchester trades are of secondary
importance. Agricultural machinery is made here, and brewing and
corn-milling carried on, but the once famed textile manufactures are
gone. Among those old trades was the industry of baize-making, which
left Colchester considerably over a century ago for other centres,
after having given additional prosperity to the town for a period of
a hundred and fifty years. It was shortly after 1570 that numbers
of Dutch Protestants, fleeing from the Spanish persecutions in
Holland, introduced the making of "bays and says," and, despite local
jealousies, flourished amazingly for generations here.
But Colchester will never be dull while it continues to be what it is
now--a great military depôt. Those worthy representatives of the Roman
legionaries at a distance in time of nineteen centuries or so, the
Tommies and troopers of the British Army, are a prominent feature in
every street, and bugles blow all round the clock, from _réveillé_ to
the last post, when every good soldier goes home to his barracks down
the Butt Road; while the King's bad bargains stay behind and fortify
themselves against apprehensions of the morrow's "clink" with another
glass, or, adventuring too rashly into the street, find themselves
presently in charge of the military patrol that walks the town with
measured step and slow.
XXIX
"FROM Colchester to Ipswitch is ten mile," says that
seventeenth-century traveller, Celia Fiennes, in her diary. The
milestones, however, tell quite a different tale and contradict the
lady by making the distance between the two towns eighteen miles and a
quarter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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