The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Seven miles of these bring the traveller from Colchester across the
Stour and so into Suffolk. It is not an exciting seven miles. Passing
the eastern outskirts of Colchester, where mud in the Colne and puddles
beside the slattern streets offend the sense of propriety, as, having
reversed their natural positions, the Fair Field is left on the right.
"Left" is an expression used advisedly, for who would linger there?
But the Fair Field cannot be passed unawares. If not seen, it will be
heard, for on it camp the caravans, steam roundabouts and travelling
circuses that still draw rustic crowds with their fat women, giants and
dwarfs; or delight them with mechanical rides on wooden horses to the
bellowing of a steam organ, whose music-hall airs follow the traveller
in gusts of stentorian minstrelsy when the wind unkindly wills it so.
The sounds nerve the cyclist to quickly put the miles between himself
and those siren strains, and happily the road is a fast one, so that
he need not be long about the business. It goes, as an old turnpike
should, broad and straight and well-kept, for the matter of six miles,
with little to vary the monotony of trim hedgerow and equi-distant
telegraph poles.
Let us therefore leave it awhile, and, journeying some three hundred
yards along the Harwich Road, come across a railway level-crossing to
the suburb of St Ann's, and the site of a spring and hermitage called
Holy Well. The spring is now sealed up, but an inscription in the wall
of a cottage still proclaims it to have been reopened in 1844. It seems
strange that the Hermitage should have been placed, not on the main
road where pilgrims were surely more plentiful, but on the seaward
route. The explanation may probably be sought in the existence already
of another establishment of the kind, long since forgotten. Here, then,
the Hermitage of St Ann's was placed, and a holy well and an oratory
made appeal to the piety or the superstition, as the case might be, of
all who passed by. To these the hermit presented his leathern wallet,
beseeching travellers, who would have gone without giving alms, to
spare a trifle for the upkeep of the road, even though they valued not
the Blessed Saints.
For three hundred years the Hermitage lasted, and a long line of
hermits lived here. Some were pious and industrious, keeping the road
in repair; others had neither piety nor industry, spent their time
in taverns, were smiters, and got drunk and fought, so that the road
became scandalously neglected, and many Colchester worthies received
apostolical black eyes from eremitical fists. Such an one must have
been the hermit who lived here in the reign of Henry the Fifth, and
was indicted in 1419 for having an unclean ditch. Finally, in 1535,
when the dissolution of the monasteries took place, the Hermitage was
closed, and the then occupant turned out, with a warning that if he
solicited alms henceforward he would be regarded as a "sturdy beggar,"
and dealt with accordingly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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