The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Although, as we have seen, Sir Thomas Browne was impressed with this
work, an early nineteenth-century tourist (so early indeed as 1801)
curtly dismisses it as "a pompous sign, with ridiculous ornaments," and
shortly after that it seems to have been taken down, for the reason
that it cost the landlord more to keep it in repair than the trade of
the house permitted. Together with this, the once celebrated Great Bed
of the White Hart has also disappeared. It was a round bed capable of
holding twenty couples, and was therefore a good deal larger than the
famous Great Bed of Ware. Perhaps it was because guests did not relish
this co-operative method of seeking repose, or maybe because sheets,
blankets and coverlets of sufficient size were unobtainable, that the
Scole Great Bed was chopped up for firewood; but did anyone _ever_
suppose beds of this wholesale capacity would be desirable?
The accompanying old view of the gigantic sign shows one of the
peculiar basket coaches of the second half of the eighteenth century,
on its way to London.
[Illustration: THE OLD SIGN OF SCOLE WHITE HART.]
"Scole White Hart" must have been among the very finest of inns and
posting-houses. Its wide staircases, of a width sufficient for the
proverbial coach-and-four to drive up them, its large rooms and fine
panelled doors, its great stone-flagged kitchen, all proclaim how great
must have been its old prosperity; while the wide-spreading yard in
the rear of the house, together with the outbuildings, gives some hint
of how heavy the traffic was at this junction of the Lowestoft, Bungay,
Diss and Thetford road with that from London to Norwich. Shrunken trade
has caused portions of the inn to be let off; the stone and wooden
porches seen in the old print have disappeared; the coach entrance has
long since been blocked up and has become the bar-parlour, and the
mullions of the windows have given place to sashes; but the building
still retains a noble architectural character, and is perhaps more
interesting in these latter days, now that its story is told, than ever
it was when that story was in the making. Little or nothing is found in
contemporary records of "Scole White Hart"; only one vivid flash in its
later years, when indignant would-be coach passengers stood at the door
on a day in October 1822 and saw the drivers of the "Norwich Times"
and "Gurney's Original Day Coach," fired by rivalry, and reckless in
their long race from Whitechapel, come pounding furiously down the road
and over the bridge, pass the inn without stopping, and disappear in
clouds of dust in the direction of Norwich. Do you know what it is to
lose a train and to wait an hour for the next? You do? Then it will
not be difficult to form some idea of the blind, stuttering fury that
possessed those who had booked seats at Scole and saw the coaches dash
away, to leave them with half a day's wait.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account