The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
Thorogood was driving the "Times." Both started from London at 5.30
a.m. The "Day" coach reached Norwich at 5.20 p.m., and the "Times" ten
minutes later, neither having stopped for changing horses during the
last twenty-five miles. This was a "record" for that period, the usual
time being fourteen hours.
Probably the would-be passengers had to remain the night; a fate which
no one who has done the like of late would be apt to complain of.
The guest at the "White Hart," seated in solitary state in the lofty
sitting-room, lit dimly by candles in antique plated candlesticks, and
with two ox-eyed seventeenth-century beauties of the Lely type gazing
down upon him from their sombre frames, presently feels oddly as though
he were living in another era; a feeling that grows as he wanders
upstairs to bed, almost losing himself in the roomy corridors. When
he has closed the nail-studded bedroom door with a reverberant clang,
and, creeping into the generous embraces of a damask-hung four-poster
that may have been new a century and a half ago, gazes reflectively
about the panelled room and on the curiously coffered ceiling, he drops
off to sleep straightway into the times when the inn was new-built and
dreams of how the news of the Restoration may have come to Scole in
1661. Old times live again, faded flowers bloom once more, forgotten
footsteps echo along the passages, and lo, the Has Been is enacted
again, with all the convincing air of such visions. Post-chaises and
chariots clatter up to the door and their noise wakens the sleeper
to the consciousness that the sound is but that of a jolting rustic
tumbril going down the road in the early morning; that this is the
twentieth century, and the "White Hart" but a survival in a back
eddy of life.
[Illustration: STAIRCASE IN THE "WHITE HART."]
Besides the "White Hart," there is little else at Scole. The plain
flint tower of the church stands by the roadside, on the ascent that
leads from the village; and other two or three inns, a few rustic shops
and cottages, and a private residence or so make up the tale. Scole,
in fact, has not grown greatly since when it was a Roman station, and
when the Roman soldiers whose remains have been found near the river
occupied the military post on the long road to Venta Icenorum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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