The Nursery-Book: A Complete Guide to the Multiplication and Pollination of PlantsBailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Science
The Nursery-Book: A Complete Guide to the Multiplication and Pollination of Plants
Bailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Plant propagation
Cuttings are usually employed by nurserymen to propagate
the grape. These are made in many fashions. In all
ordinary cases hard-wood cuttings are made from the ripened
canes in autumn or winter when the vines are pruned. It is
advisable to take the cuttings before the canes have been
exposed to great cold. Select only those canes which are
well-matured, solid and rather short-jointed. In common
practice, the cuttings are cut into two-bud length, the lower
cut being made close to the bud. The cuttings will range
from six to ten inches in length. Some prefer three-bud
cuttings (Fig. 43), but unless the cane is very short-jointed
such cuttings are too long to be planted and handled economically.
Three-bud cuttings usually give stronger plants the
first season because roots start from both joints as a rule.
Very strong plants are obtained from mallet cuttings (Fig.
45), but as only one such cutting can be made from a cane,
unless the cane bears very strong branches, they are not
much used. Various methods of peeling, slitting and slicing
cuttings are recommended, in order to extend the callusing
process but they are not used in common or commercial
practice. The cuttings are tied in bundles of 50 or 100, and
stored in sand, moss, or sawdust in a cellar, until spring,
when they are planted in rows in the open. Some varieties,
of which the Delaware is an example, do not strike
readily from cuttings. Some growers start common cuttings
of these under glass in spring. Others bury the bundles of
cuttings in a warm exposure in the fall, with the butt ends up
and about level with the surface of the ground. This
affords bottom heat to the butts and induces callusing. At
the approach of cold weather the cuttings are removed to a
cellar, or are heavily mulched and allowed to remain where
buried. Storing is safer. Some growers obtain the same
results by burying upside down in a cellar. These slow-rooting
sorts often start well if they are simply kept in a
warm cellar--but where the buds will not swell--all winter,
as the callusing is then hastened. At the end of the first
season the plants may be transplanted. The plants are
often sold at this age, but buyers usually prefer two-year-old
plants.
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