Bulbels vary greatly in size and frequency in different species. Sometimes they are no larger than a grain of wheat, and in other plants they are as large as hickory-nuts. In some species they are borne habitually underneath the scales of the mother bulb. These bulbels are often removed when the mother bulbs are taken up, and they are usually planted in essentially the same manner as the bulbs themselves, although it is desirable to place them, at least for the first year, in a bed or border by themselves. Or if they are especially small and delicate they may be planted in pots or flats and be treated about the same as single eye cuttings. In some lilies the bulbels are allowed to remain attached and the whole mass is planted in the fall in close drills. Sometimes the larger lily bulbels will produce flowers the following season, but they usually require the whole of the season in which to complete their growth. The second fall they are ready to be permanently planted. Bulbels of some plants require a longer time in which to mature into bulbs. [Illustration: Fig. 12. Cut Hyacinth Bulb.] [Illustration: Fig. 13. Hollowed Hyacinth Bulb.] Bulbels are often produced by an injury to the bulb. Growth of stem and leaves is prevented or checked and the energy is directed to the formation of minute buds, or bulbs, in the same manner as adventitious buds form upon a wounded stem. Advantage is taken of this fact to multiply some bulbous plants, and in the case of the hyacinths, at least, the mutilation of bulbs for this purpose is practiced to a commercial extent. Hyacinth bulbs are cut in two, or are slashed in various ways. The favorite method is to make two or three deep transverse cuts into the base of the bulb. The strongest bulbs should be chosen and the operation is performed in spring or early summer when the bulb is taken up. The bulbs are sometimes hollowed out from the under side for half or more of their length. This operation is sometimes performed later in the season than the other, and precaution should be exercised that the bulbs do not become too moist, else they will rot. Hollowed bulbs should be well dried before being planted. Both methods of preparing hyacinth bulbs are shown in Figs. 12 and 13 which are adapted from Gardeners' Chronicle. Fig. 14 shows a portion of the base of a cross-cut bulb, with the adventitious bulbels. The mutilated bulbs are stored during summer, and are planted in fall or spring. The wounded bulbs produce very little foliage, but at the end of the first season the bulbels will have formed. The bulbels are then separated and planted by themselves in prepared beds. Several years are required for the bulbels to mature into flowering bulbs. Some of the strongest ones may produce flowering bulbs in three years, but some of them, especially those obtained from the hollowed bulbs, will not mature short of six years. This method of propagating hyacinths is confined almost entirely to Holland.