The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United States — John Shaqi
The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United StatesFuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Science
The Nut Culturist: A Treatise on Propogation, Planting, and Cultivation of Nut Bearing Trees and Shrubs Adapted to the Climate of the United States
Fuller, Andrew S. (Andrew Samuel)
Nuts
If peach stones are to be planted for stocks they may be put into
the ground as soon as ready in autumn, because they are rarely
disturbed by vermin; or if more convenient, mix with common soil,
and in heaps, in the open ground, and leave in this position until
spring, then pick out as they begin to sprout, and plant. The
hard-shelled almond may be treated in the same way, only they are
not to be handled quite as roughly as peach stones, and for
protection it is best to put them in barrels or boxes, as described
above.
When ready for planting take out the nuts and drop them in shallow
drills, one every ten or twelve inches, then cover with about two
inches of soil. It is to be supposed, of course, that a seed bed has
been prepared, by thorough working over and enriching, if necessary,
in advance of planting. The distance between the drills or rows
should be sufficient to admit of cultivating the plants with a horse
or mule, and cultivator, during the summer, and if this is done and
the soil stirred often enough to keep down all weeds, the stocks
should become large enough to admit of budding the first season; if
not, then this operation must be deferred until the following year.
But in case the seedlings are raised from choice varieties and to be
left in their natural condition for fruiting, they may be lifted
when one or two seasons old and set where they are to remain
permanently.
=The Season for Budding.=--So much depends upon climate, location,
and variation of seasons, that no special date or time can be given
for budding trees of any kind, but it is always to be done while the
stocks are in active growth, because the bark must part freely from
the wood underneath, in order to admit of inserting the bud under
it. If the buds are set too early in the season there is danger of a
premature growth; that is, of pushing out a shoot in the fall
instead of remaining dormant until the following spring. Under
certain conditions, however, and for special purposes, it may be
advisable to force the buds as soon as they have formed a union with
the stock, but as a rule, in the propagation of hardy and half-hardy
trees, it is better to keep the buds dormant during the cool or cold
winter months.
Here in the Northern States we usually begin to look over our stocks
during the latter part of July or first week in August, and note
their progress and condition. Should they show the least signs of
cessation of growth, we begin budding them, and push the work as
rapidly as possible. If the season is a wet one the stocks may
continue to grow and remain in good condition for budding until the
middle of September; but in a dry season they may cease to grow in
August, and it is these variable conditions which gives to the close
observer and man of experience such an advantage over the novice in
the propagation of plants. It is better to begin budding too early
than to be a few days too late.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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