The Ocean and Its WondersBallantyne, R. M. (Robert Michael)
Science
The Ocean and Its Wonders
Ballantyne, R. M. (Robert Michael)
Ocean
One such wave is described as breaking on one of these islands with
tremendous violence. It appeared at first like a dark line, or low
cloud, or fog-bank, on the sea-ward horizon. The day was fine though
cloudy, and a gentle breeze was blowing; but the sea was not rougher, or
the breaker on the coral reef that encircled the island higher, than
usual. It was supposed to be an approaching thunder-storm; but the line
gradually drew nearer without spreading upon the sky, as would have been
the case had it been a thunder-cloud. Still nearer it came, and soon
those on shore observed that it was moving swiftly towards the island;
but there was no sound until it reached the smaller islands out at sea.
As it passed these, a cloud of white foam encircled each and burst high
into the air. This appearance was soon followed by a loud roar, and it
became evident that the object was an enormous wave. When it approached
the outer reef, its awful magnitude became more evident. It burst
completely over the reef at all points, with a deep, continuous roar;
yet, although part of its force was thus broken, on it came, as if with
renewed might, and finally fell upon the beach with a crash that seemed
to shake the solid earth; then, rushing impetuously up into the woods,
it levelled the smaller trees and bushes in its headlong course; and, on
retiring, left a scene of wreck and desolation that is quite
indescribable.
"Storm-waves," as those unusually gigantic billows are called, are said
to be the result of the removal of atmospheric pressure in certain parts
of the ocean over which a storm is raging. This removal of pressure
allows the portion thus relieved to be forced up high above the ordinary
sea-level by those other parts that are not so relieved.
The devastating effects of these storm-waves is still further
illustrated by the total destruction of Coringa, on the Coromandel
Coast, in 1789. During a hurricane, in December of that year, at the
moment when a high tide was at its highest point, and the north-west
wind was blowing with fury, accumulating the waters at the head of the
bay, three monstrous waves came rolling in from the sea upon the devoted
town, following each other at a short distance. The horror-stricken
inhabitants had scarcely time to note the fact of their approach, when
the first wave, sweeping everything in its passage, carried several feet
of water into the town. The second swept still further in its
destructive course, inundating all the low country. The third, rushing
onward in irresistible fury, overwhelmed everything, submerging the town
and twenty thousand of its inhabitants. Vessels at anchor at the mouth
of the river were carried inland; and the sea on retiring left heaps of
sand and mud, which rendered it a hopeless task either to search for the
dead or for buried property.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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