The Ocean and Its WondersBallantyne, R. M. (Robert Michael)
Science
The Ocean and Its Wonders
Ballantyne, R. M. (Robert Michael)
Ocean
The tides of the sea--as the two great flowings and ebbings of the water
every twenty-four hours are called--are caused principally by the
attractive influence of the moon, which, to a small extent, lifts the
waters of the ocean towards it, as it passes over them, and thus causes
a high wave. This wave, or current, when it swells up on the land,
forms high tide. When the moon's influence has completely passed away,
it is low tide. The moon raises this wave wherever it passes; not only
in the ocean directly under it, but, strange to say, it causes a similar
wave on the opposite side of the globe. Thus there are two waves always
following the moon, and hence the two high tides in the twenty-four
hours. This second wave has been accounted for in the following way:
The cohesion of particles of water is easily overcome. The moon, in
passing over the sea, separates the particles by her attractive power,
and draws the surface of the sea away from the solid globe. But the
moon also attracts the earth itself, and draws it away from the water on
its opposite side thus causing the high wave there, as represented in
the diagram, _figure 1_.
The sun has also a slight influence on the tides, but not to such an
extent as the moon. When the two luminaries exert their combined
influence in the same direction, they produce the phenomenon of a very
high or spring-tide, as in _figure 2_, where the tide at _a_ and _b_ has
risen extremely high, while at _c_ and _d_ it has fallen correspondingly
low. When they act in opposition to each other, as at the moon's
quarter, there occurs a very low or neap-tide. In _figure 3_ the moon
has raised high tide at _a_ and _b_, but the sun has counteracted its
influence to some extent at _c_ and _d_, thus producing neap-tides,
which neither rise so high nor fall so low as do other tides. Tides
attain various elevations in different parts of the world, partly owing
to local influences. In the Bristol Channel the tide rises to nearly
sixty feet, while in the Mediterranean it is extremely small, owing to
the landlocked nature of that sea preventing the tidal wave from having
its full effect. Up some gulfs and estuaries the tides sweep with the
violence of a torrent, and any one caught by them on the shore would be
overtaken and drowned before he could gain the dry land. In the open
sea they rise and fall to an elevation of little more than three or four
feet.
The value of the tides is unspeakable. They sweep from our shores
pollution of every kind, purify our rivers and estuaries, and are
productive of freshness and health all round the world.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The gentlemen here referred to are agreed as to the fact of systematic
arrangement of currents, though they differ in regard to some of the
causes thereof and other matters.
CHAPTER FOUR.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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