The Ocean World: Being a Description of the Sea and Its Living Inhabitants.Figuier, Louis
Science
The Ocean World: Being a Description of the Sea and Its Living Inhabitants.
Figuier, Louis
Marine animals; Ocean
The winds, again, exercise a great influence on the height of the tides.
When the impulse of the wind is added to that of the attracting planet,
the normal height of the wave is considerably increased. If the wind is
contrary, the flux of the tide is almost annihilated. This happens in
the Gulf of Vera Cruz, where the tide is only perceptible once in three
days, when the wind blows with violence. An analogous phenomenon is
observable on the coast of Tasmania.
[Illustration: Fig. 7. Point du Raz, Coast of Brittany.]
The rising tide sometimes strikes the shore with a continuous and
incredible force. This violent shock is called the _surf_. The swell
then forms a billow, which expands to half a mile. The surf increases as
it approaches the coast, when it sometimes attains the height of six or
seven yards, forming an overhanging mountain of water, which gradually
sinks as it rolls over itself. But this motion is not in reality
progressive--it transports no floating body. The surf is very strong at
the Isle of Fogo, one of the Cape de Verd Islands in the Indian Ocean,
and at Sumatra, where the surf renders it dangerous and sometimes
impossible to land on the coast. Fig. 7 represents the effects of the
surf at Point du Raz, on the coast of Brittany. The winds adding their
influence to these causes, give birth on the surface of the sea to waves
or billows, which increase rapidly, rising in foaming mountains,
rolling, bounding, and breaking one against the other. "In one moment,"
says Malte Brun, "the waves seem to carry sea-goddesses on its breast,
which seem to revel amid plays and dances; in the next instant, a
tempest rising out of them, seems to be animated by its fury. They seem
to swell with passion, and we think we see in them marine monsters which
are prepared for war. A strong, constant, and equal wind produces long
swelling billows, which, rising on the same line, advance with a uniform
movement, one after the other, precipitating themselves upon the coast.
Sometimes these billows are suspended by the wind or arrested by some
current, thus forming, as it were, a liquid wall. In this position,
unhappy is the daring navigator who is subjected to its fury." The
highest waves are those which prevail in the offing off the Cape of Good
Hope at the period of high tide, under the influence of a strong
north-west wind, which has traversed the South Atlantic, pressing its
waters towards the Cape. "The billows there lift themselves up in long
ridges," says Dr. Maury, "with deep hollows between them. They run high
and fast, tossing their white caps aloft in the air, looking like the
green hills of a rolling prairie capped with snow, and chasing each
other in sport. Still, their march is stately, and their roll majestic.
The scenery among them is grand. Many an Australian-bound trader, after
doubling the Cape, finds herself followed for weeks at a time by these
magnificent rolling swells, furiously driven and lashed by the "brave
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