of fishes, turtles, pelicans, and other animals of the seashore. Dr. Max Uhle is now engaged in making excavations at Chan-Chan and at Moche, the latter offering a study of much archæological importance in its “Huaco del Sol.” [Illustration: A LOAD OF CANE READY FOR THE FACTORY.] [Illustration: MAIN ENTRANCE TO A SUGAR HACIENDA NEAR TRUJILLO.] Moche is an Indian town situated midway between Trujillo and the port of Salaverry, to the south. Its inhabitants preserve their primitive costumes, and wear a distinctive dress, the women’s garb consisting of a chemise and a single piece of dark blue cloth wrapped round the body and fastened at the waist, reaching to the ankles. The municipal ordinance forbids the wearing of this costume in the city, but at Moche it is everywhere seen. The Moche Indians never intermarry with other races, and they are as proud of their unmixed pedigree as any “belted earl.” They are an intelligent people, and the women are graceful and ready-witted. Recently, two North American ladies were being shown the sights of Trujillo, when their cicerone drew attention to a Moche girl riding by on a donkey, evidently on her way to Moche. Seeing that she was an object of interest, she smiled and bowed with the nonchalance of a court belle, and asked the ladies’ escort, “_Gringas?_” As the amusement of the strangers told that they understood this patronymic to apply to themselves, she hastened to add, hospitably, “Bring them to Moche!” It is impossible to imagine a more complete transition than is made when one leaves the enchanted realm of the _peje grande_ for the varying sights and scenes of the Chicama valley. It is necessary to visit the former in order to appreciate the full significance of the latter. Everything around Chan-Chan is a temptation to live on dreams, to try one’s luck at treasure hunting, or to dig _huacas_ in the hope of getting a rare specimen for some archæological museum. The Chicama valley affords proof that there are richer treasures in its fertile fields than Chan-Chan ever had in hiding, and no uncertainty exists as to their location. Its area is about a hundred square leagues, drained by the Chicama River, which rises in the province of Otuzco, Department of La Libertad, and flows into the Pacific. On its great plantations, sugar-cane is grown that reaches a height of from twenty to twenty-five feet, containing more than fourteen per cent of sugar. The broad estates of Casa Grande, Roma, Cartavio, and others, are crossed by private railways which carry the cane from the fields to the mills; and the entire valley has direct communication with the port of Salaverry by means of the state railway, now under the administration of the Peruvian Corporation. From the port, the main line passes through Moche, Trujillo (eight miles from Salaverry), and crossing the desert _pampa_ with one stop only at the station of La Cumbre, enters the valley at the town of Chicama, twenty miles north of the capital.