The Old Coast Road: From Boston to Plymouth — John Shaqi
The Old Coast Road: From Boston to PlymouthRothery, Agnes
History
The Old Coast Road: From Boston to Plymouth
Rothery, Agnes
Norfolk County (Mass.) -- Description and travel; Plymouth County (Mass.) -- Description and travel; South Shore (Mass. : Coast)
Before we start down the Old Coast Road it may be enlightening to get a
bird's-eye glimpse of it actually as we have historically, and for such
a glimpse there is no better place than on the topmost balcony of the
Soldier's Monument on Dorchester Heights. The trip to Dorchester
Heights, in South Boston, is, through whatever environs one approaches
it, far from attractive. This section of the city, endowed with
extraordinary natural beauty and advantage of both land and water, and
irrevocably and brilliantly graven upon the annals of American history,
has been allowed to lose its ancient prestige and to sink low indeed in
the social scale.
Nevertheless it is to Dorchester Heights that we, as travelers down the
Old Coast Road, and as skimmers over the quickly turning pages of our
early New England history, must go, and having once arrived at that
lovely green eminence, whitely pointed with a marble shaft of quite
unusual excellence, we must grieve once more that this truly glorious
spot, with its unparalleled view far down the many-islanded harbor to
the east and far over the famous city to the west, is not more
frequented, more enjoyed, more honored.
If you find your way up the hill, into the monument, and up the stairs
out to the balcony, probably you will encounter no other tourist. Only
when you reach the top and emerge into the blue upper air you will meet
those friendly winged visitors who frequent all spires--Saint Mark's in
Venice or the Soldier's Monument in South Boston--the pigeons! Yes, the
pigeons have discovered the charm of this lofty loveliness, and
whenever the caretaker turns away his vigilant eye, they haste to build
their nests on balcony or stair. They alone of Boston's residents enjoy
to the full that of which too many Bostonians ignore the existence. Will
you read the inscriptions first and recall the events which have raised
this special hill to an historic eminence equal to its topographical
one? Or will you look out first, on all sides and see the harbor, the
city and country as it is to-day? Both surveys will be brief; perhaps we
will begin with the latter.
Before us, to the wide east, lies Boston Harbor, decked with islands so
various, so fascinating in contour and legend, that more than one volume
has been written about them and not yet an adequate one. From the point
of view of history these islands are pulsating with life. From Castle
Island (on the left) which was selected as far back as 1634 to be a
bulwark of the port, and which, with its Fort Independence, was where
many of our Civil War soldiers received their training, to the outline
of Squantum (on the right), where in October, 1917, there lay a marsh,
and where, ten months later, the destroyer Delphy was launched from a
shipyard that was a miracle of modern engineering--every mile of visible
land is instinct with war-time associations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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