The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
I may here mention the singular parallel in Besant and Rice’s novel, _The
Seamy Side_, where, in Chapter XXVIII., you will find Gilbert Yorke going
to the hotel at Lulworth, in Dorset, and there ordering, like another Will
Waterproof, “for the good of the house,” “a pint of port” after dinner.
He, we are told, could not drink “the ardent port of country inns,” and
therefore “he poured the contents of the bottle into a pot of mignonette
in the window.... The flowers waggled their heads sadly and then drooped
and died,” as of course, being notoriously total abstainers, they could
not choose but do. But it was unfair, alike to the port and the plants.
[Illustration: THE “GREAT WHITE HORSE,” IPSWICH.]
How changed the times since those when Mr. Pickwick stayed at the “Great
White Horse!” We read how, after his unpleasant adventure with the lady in
the yellow curl-papers, he “stood alone, in an open passage, in the middle
of the night, half dressed,” and in perfect darkness, with the
uncomfortable knowledge that, if he tried to find his own bedroom by
turning the handles of each one in succession “he stood every chance of
being shot at, and perhaps killed, by some wakeful traveller.” No one in a
similar position would have that fear now: and even American guests,
commonly supposed to “go heeled,” _i.e._ to carry an armoury of
six-shooters about them, do not invariably sleep with their
shooting-irons under their pillows.
The exterior of the “Great White Horse” is much the same as when Dickens
saw it, “in the main street of Ipswich, on the left-hand side of the way.”
Still over the pillared portico trots the effigy of the Great White Horse
himself, “a stone statue of some rampacious animal, with flowing mane and
tail, distantly resembling an insane cart-horse”; but the old courtyard
has in modern times been roofed in with glass, and is now a something
partaking in equal parts of winter-garden, smoking-lounge, and bar.
Returning again to London from Ipswich, Mr. Pickwick, giving up his
lodgings in Goswell Road with the treacherous Mrs. Bardell, took up his
abode in “very good old-fashioned and comfortable quarters, to wit, the
‘George and Vulture’ Tavern and Hotel, George Yard, Lombard Street.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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