The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
One may no longer stay at the “George and Vulture,” and indeed, if one
might, I do not know that any one would choose, for after business hours,
and on Sundays and holidays, the modern George Yard, now entirely hemmed
in with the enormous buildings of banks and insurance-companies, is a
dismally deserted and forbidding place. The sunlight only by dint of great
endeavour comes at a particular hour slanting down to one side of the
stony courtyard, and the air is close and stale. But on days of business,
and in the hours of business, in the continual stream of passers-by, you
do not notice these things. Many of those whom you see in George Yard
disappear, a little mysteriously it seems, in an obscure doorway, tucked
away in an angle. It might, in most likelihood, be a bank to which they
enter; but, as a sheer matter of fact, it is the “George and Vulture”: in
these days one of the most famous of City chop-houses.
I have plumbed the depths of depravity in chops, and have found them often
naturally hard, tasteless, and greasily fat; or if not naturally depraved,
the wicked incapacity of those who cook them has in some magic way
exorcised their every virtue. It matters little to you whether your chop
be innately uneatable, or whether it has acquired that defect in the
cooking: the net result is that you go hungry.
At the “George and Vulture,” as before noted, you may not stay--or “hang
out,” as it was suggested by Bob Sawyer that Mr. Pickwick did--but there
you do nowadays find chops of the best, cooked to perfection on the grill,
and may eat off old-world pewter plates and, to complete the ideality of
the performance, drink ale out of pewter tankards; all in the company of a
crowded roomful of hungry City men, and in a very Babel of talk. And, ah
me! where does the proprietor get that perfect port?
Between Chapters XXVI. and XXXIV. we have a perfect constellation--or
rather, a species of cloudy Milky Way--of inns, nebulous, undefined; but
in Chapter XXXV. we find Mr. Pickwick, on his way to Bath, waiting for the
coach in the travellers’-room of the “White Horse Cellar,” Piccadilly,
a very brilliant star of an inn, indeed, in its day; but rather a
migratory one, for in the coaching age it was removed from its original
site at the corner of Arlington Street, where the Ritz Hotel stands now,
to the opposite side of the road, at the corner of Albemarle Street. There
it remained until 1884, when the old house was pulled down and the present
“Albemarle” built in its stead.
[Illustration: THE “WHITE HART,” BATH.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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