The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
We do not find Gloucester mentioned, although it must have been passed on
the way; but, under those circumstances, we are by no means surprised.
The “Hop Pole” at Tewkesbury is still a “going concern,” and, with the
adjoining gabled and timbered houses, is a notable landmark in the High
Street. Nowadays it proudly displays a tablet recording its Pickwickian
associations.
A drunken sleep (for it could have been nothing else) composed those two
“insides,” Mr. Pickwick and Ben Allen, on the way to Birmingham, while,
thanks in part to the fresh air, Sam Weller and Bob Sawyer “sang duets in
the dickey.” By the time they were nearing Birmingham it was quite dark.
The postboy drove them to the “Old Royal Hotel,” where an order for that
surely very necessary thing, soda-water, having been given, the waiter
“imperceptibly melted away”: a proceeding that, paradoxically enough,
seems to have been initiated by the house itself, years before; for it was
about 1825, two years before the Pickwickians are represented as starting
on their travels, that the “Old Royal” was transferred from Temple Row to
New Street, and there became the “New Royal.”
The inn at Coventry, at which the post-horses were changed on the journey
from Birmingham, is unnamed, unhonoured, and unsung; but very famous, in
the Pickwickian way, is the “Saracen’s Head” at Towcester, or “Toaster,”
as the townsfolk call it, even though its identity is a little obscured by
the sign having been exchanged for that of the “Pomfret Arms.” The change,
which was actually made in April, 1831, was a complimentary allusion to
the Earls of Pomfret, who before the title became extinct, in 1867,
resided at the neighbouring park of Easton Neston.
[Illustration: THE “HOP-POLE,” TEWKESBURY.]
In all essentials the inn remains the same as the old coaching hostelry to
which Mr. Pickwick and his friends drove up in their post-chaise, after
the long wet journey from Coventry. As “at the end of each stage it rained
harder than it had done at the beginning,” Mr. Pickwick wisely decided to
halt here.
“There’s beds here,” reported Sam; “everything’s clean and comfortable.
Wery good little dinner, sir, they can get ready in half an hour--pair of
fowls, sir, and a weal cutlet; French beans, ’taturs, tarts, and tidiness.
You’d better stop vere you are, sir, if I might recommend.”
[Illustration: THE “POMFRET ARMS,” TOWCESTER: FORMERLY THE “SARACEN’S
HEAD.”]
At the moment of this earnest colloquy in the rain the landlord of the
“Saracen’s Head” appeared, “to confirm Mr. Weller’s statement relative to
the accommodations of the establishment, and to back his entreaties with a
variety of dismal conjectures regarding the state of the roads, the doubt
of fresh horses being to be had at the next stage, the dead certainty of
its raining all night, the equally mortal certainty of its clearing up in
the morning, and other topics of inducement familiar to innkeepers.”
[Illustration: THE YARD OF THE “POMFRET ARMS.”]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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