THE KITCHEN OF A COUNTRY INN, 1797: SHOWING THE TURNSPIT DOG. (_From the engraving after Rowlandson_) 48 WESTGATE, CANTERBURY, AND THE “FALSTAFF” INN 86 CHARING CROSS, ABOUT 1829, SHOWING THE “GOLDEN CROSS” INN. (_From the engraving after T. Hosmer Shepherd_) 218 THE “GOLDEN CROSS,” SUCCESSOR OF THE PICKWICKIAN INN, AS REBUILT 1828 220 ROCHESTER IN PICKWICKIAN DAYS, SHOWING THE OLD BRIDGE AND “WRIGHT’S” 224 THE “BELLE SAUVAGE.” (_From a drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd_) 228 THE DICKENS ROOM, “LEATHER BOTTLE,” COBHAM 230 THE “BULL INN,” WHITECHAPEL. (_From the water-colour drawing by P. Palfrey_) 246 THE “WHITE HART,” BATH 252 THE “BUSH,” BRISTOL 256 THE “COACH AND HORSES,” ISLEWORTH 276 THE “LION,” SHREWSBURY, SHOWING THE ANNEXE ADJOINING, WHERE DICKENS STAYED 298 THE “GREEN MAN,” HATTON 318 THE HIGHWAYMAN’S HIDING-HOLE 318 ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT Vignette, The Old-time Innkeeper _Title-page_ PAGE Preface v List of Illustrations xi The Old Inns of Old England, The “Black Bear,” Sandbach 1 The Oldest Inhabited House in England: The “Fighting Cocks,” St. Albans 5 The “Dick Whittington,” Cloth Fair 6 “Ye Olde Rover’s Return,” Manchester 7 The Oldest Licensed House in Great Britain: The “Seven Stars,” Manchester 11 An Ale-stake. (_From the Louterell Psalter_) 15 Elynor Rummyng 21 The “Running Horse,” Leatherhead 25 Facsimile of an Account rendered to John Palmer in 1787 54 The Last Days of the “Swan with Two Necks” 55 Crypt at the “George,” Rochester 83 Sign of the “Falstaff,” Canterbury 88 House formerly a Pilgrims’ Hostel, Compton 91 The “Star,” Alfriston 93