The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
The great “Lion” inn on Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury, forms the scene of one of De
Quincey’s mystical rhapsodies. It is the house to which he came in 1802,
when, as a youth, he was setting forth in his unpractical way for London.
He had walked in from Oswestry, reaching Shrewsbury two hours after
nightfall. Innkeepers in those times knew little of pedestrians who footed
it for pleasure, and classed all who walked when they might have rode as
tramps. Therefore, it will be allowed that De Quincey timed his arrival
well, at an hour when dusty feet are not so easily seen. However, had his
shoes been noticed, he was ready with a defence, for he came to the “Lion”
as a passenger already booked to London by the Mail. An Oswestry friend
had performed that service for him, and here he was come to await the
arrival of that conveyance.
“This character,” he says, “at once installed me as rightfully a guest of
the inn, however profligate a life I might have previously led as a
pedestrian. Accordingly I was received with special courtesy, and, it so
happened, with something even like pomp. Four wax-lights carried before me
by obedient mutes, these were but ordinary honours, meant (as old
experience had instructed me) for the first engineering step towards
effecting a lodgment upon the stranger’s purse. In fact, the wax-lights
are used by innkeepers, both abroad and at home, to ‘try the range of
their guns.’ If the stranger submits quietly, as a good anti-pedestrian
ought surely to do, and fires no counter-gun by way of protest, then he is
recognised at once as passively within range, and amenable to orders. I
have always looked upon this fine of 5_s._ or 7_s._ (for wax that you do
not absolutely need) as a sort of inaugural _honorarium_ entrance-money,
what in jails used to be known as _smart_ money, proclaiming me to be a
man _comme il faut_, and no toll in this world of tolls do I pay so
cheerfully. This, meantime, as I have said, was too customary a form to
confer much distinction. The wax-lights, to use the magnificent Grecian
phrase επομπ ευε moved pompously before me, as the holy-holy fire (the
inextinguishable fire and its golden hearth) moved before Cæsar _semper_
Augustus, when he made his official or ceremonial _avatars_. Yet still
this moved along the ancient channels of glorification: it rolled along
ancient grooves--I might say, indeed, like one of the twelve Cæsars when
dying, _Ut puto, Deus fio_ (It’s my private opinion that at this very
moment I am turning into a god), but still the metamorphosis was not
complete. _That_ was accomplished when I stepped into the sumptuous room
allotted to me. It was a ball-room of noble proportions--lighted, if I
chose to issue orders, by three gorgeous chandeliers, not basely wrapped
up in paper, but sparkling through all their thickets of crystal branches,
and flashing back the soft rays of my tall waxen lights. There were,
moreover, two orchestras, which money would have filled within thirty
minutes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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