The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
The circumstance that led to his being shown into the ball-room of the
“Lion,” was that of the house being under repair. That room is still in
existence, and a noble and impressive room it is, occupying the upper
floor of a two-storeyed building, added to the back of the older house
perhaps a hundred and fifty years ago. Lofty, as he describes it, and
lighted by tall windows, the feature of the two music-galleries and the
chandeliers are still there, together with the supper-room at one end
divided off from the greater saloon, and therefore disproportionately
lofty. The ball-room is additionally lighted from the ceiling by a domed
skylight. The moulded plaster decorations on walls and ceiling, in the
Adams style--that style which so beautifully recast classic
conventions--are exquisite, and even yet keep their delicate colouring, as
do the emblematic figures of Music and Dancing painted on the door-panels.
At rare intervals the room is used for its original purpose, and has a
fine oak dancing-floor, but it more commonly serves, throughout the year,
that of a commercial traveller’s stock-room.
The way to this derelict haunt of eighteenth-century gaiety lies down the
yard of the inn, and up a fine broad stone stairway, now much chipped,
dirty, and neglected. On the ground floor is the billiard-room of the
present day, formerly the coach dining-room. In crepuscular apartments
adjoining, in these times given over to forgotten lumber, the curious may
find the deserted kitchens of a bygone age, with the lifts and hatches to
upper floors that once conveyed their abundant meals to a vanished
generation of John Bulls.
This portion of the house is seen to advantage at the end of the
cobble-stoned yard, passing the old coach-office remaining there,
unchanged, and proceeding to the other end, where the yard passes out into
a steep and narrow lane called Stony Bank. Looking back, the great
red-brick bulk of the ball-room, with the stone effigy of a lion on the
parapet, is seen; the surrounding buildings giving a very powerful
impression of the extensive business done here in days of old.
[Illustration: YARD OF THE “OLD ANGEL,” BASINGSTOKE.]
The “Old Angel,” Basingstoke, associated with Jane Austen’s early days,
has for close upon thirty years ceased from being an inn, and is now quite
unrecognisable as a modern “temperance hotel.” In the rear, approached
nowadays through the yard of a livery-stable, the old Assembly Rooms where
she danced with the _élite_ of the county families of her day, may with
some difficulty be found by climbing a crazy staircase and pushing through
the accumulated cobwebs of years. There, on a spacious upper floor, is the
ball-room of a hundred years ago, now deserted, or but seldom used as a
corn-store.
The great “Royal George” hotel at Knutsford is associated with that finest
of Mrs. Gaskell’s works, _Cranford_, and the “White Hart” at Whitchurch,
on the Exeter Road, has reminiscences of Newman.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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