The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
The front of the “Luttrell Arms” has been very greatly modernised, with
the exception of the ancient projecting stone porch, which still keeps on
either side the cross-slits in the masonry, commanding the length of the
street, whence two stout marksmen with cross-bows could easily defend the
house. Above, the shield of arms of the Luttrells, carved in stone,
displays their black martlets on a gold ground, and serves the inn for a
sign.
The beautiful carved oak windows in the courtyard somewhat resemble the
great window of the “Old King’s Head” at Aylesbury. Here the view extends
beautifully across the gardens of the inn, over the sea, to Blue Anchor.
[Illustration: THE OLD WINDOW, “LUTTRELL ARMS.”]
A curious seventeenth-century plaster fireplace overmantel, moulded in
high relief, is a grotesque ornament to one of the bedrooms. It displays a
half-length of a man with a singular likeness to Shakespeare, and dressed
like a page-boy, in “buttons,” presiding over the representation of a very
thin and meagre Actæon being torn to pieces by his dogs, which, in
proportion to Actæon himself, seem to be about the size of moderately
large cows. Two figures of women, with faces like potatoes, dressed in
Elizabethan or Jacobean costume, flank this device, in the manner of
caryatides. A number of somewhat similar plaster chimney-pieces are to be
found in North Somerset and North Devon, notably a fine one at the
“Trevelyan Arms,” Barnstaple: obviously all the handiwork of one man.
At Norwich, a city of ancient inns that are, in general, more delightful
to sketch and to look at than to stay in, we have the “Maid’s Head,” an
exceptionally fine survival of an Elizabethan, or slightly earlier, house.
It is an “hotel” now, and sanitated and electrically lighted up to
twentieth-century requirements; and has, moreover, an “Elizabethan”
extension, built in late Victorian times. But, in spite of all those
modern frills and flounces, the central portion of the “Maid’s Head” still
wears its genuine old-world air.
That there was an inn on this site so early as 1287 we learn from the
records of the Norwich Corporation, which tell how “Robert the fowler” was
brought to book in that year on suspicion of stealing the goods of one
John de Ingham, then staying at a tavern in the Cook Row, a street
identified with Tombland, the site of the “Maid’s Head.” The reasoning
that presumed the guilt of Robert the fowler seems to the modern mind
rather loose, and the presentment itself is worded with unconscious
humour. By this it seems that he was suspect “because he spends much and
has nothing to spend from, and roves about by night, and he is ill
thought of.” _Ergo_, as the old wording proceeds, “it must have been he
that stole John de Ingham’s goods at his tavern in the Cook Rowe.”
Relics of a building of the Norman period, thought to be remains of a
former Bishop’s Palace, are still visible in the cellars of the “Maid’s
Head.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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