The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
As there are many inns claiming, each one of them, to be the “oldest,” so
there are many others disputing the point which is the highest situated. I
must confess the subject--for myself, at least--lacks charm. I know--how
can you help knowing it?--that to reach those eyries you must use
incredible efforts, scaling preposterous heights and faring over roads
that are, as a rule, infernally rough. And when you are come, in summer
hot, in winter searched through and through by the bitter blast
that--Shakespeare notwithstanding--is by a long chalk more unkind than
man’s ingratitude, to these unkindly altitudes, what, oh my brothers, do
you see? Without exception some plaguy ill-favoured shebeen, presiding
over starve-all fields at the best, but generally president over some
aching solitude that the hand of man--man being a reasoning animal--has
never sought to bring under cultivation. The best you can say of such
spots--and it is bad at the best--is that they usually command fine views
of better places, whence, you cannot help thinking, you were a fool to
come, and from which, you suspect, the innkeepers removed from
misanthropical motives, rather than from love of bracing air, or for the
mere idea of earning a livelihood.
The peculiar honour of being the highest-situated inn appears, after much
contention, to belong to the “King’s Pit,” usually called the “Tan Hill”
inn, in midst of a ghastly hill-top solitude in the North Riding of
Yorkshire, between Reeth and Barras. You get to it--I will not say most
easily and conveniently, for convenience and ease in this connection are
things unknown, but with less discomfort and fatigue--by way of Richmond,
and, when you have got there, will curse the curiosity that brought you to
so literally “howling” a wilderness. For there the winds do generally
blow, and, when they _do_, heaven send you have not to face them, for it
is a shelterless common where the “Tan Hill” inn stands in loneliness, and
not a tree or a hedge is there to break the stinging blast.
[Illustration: “TAN HILL” INN.]
Cheerfulness is not a characteristic of those who keep hill-top inns:
hence the suspicion that they are misanthropes who, hating sight or sound
of their kind, retire to such unfrequented spots, and, when the stray
traveller seeks refreshment, instead of weeping salt tears of joy, or
exhibiting any minor sign of emotion, grudgingly attend to his wants, and
vouchsafe as little information as they safely can.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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