England -- Antiquities; England -- Description and travel; Roads -- Great Britain
We looked through the mist, down the hollow glen towards the valley
between walls of trees. We thought, perhaps, that a dim mark in the
haze far off was the tower of the Cathedral--we could not be sure. The
woods were all round us save on this open downward upon which we
gazed, and below us in its plain the discreet little river the Stour.
The Way did not take us down to that plain, but kept us on the heights
above, with the wood to our left, and to our right the palings of
Godmersham.
[Illustration: THE PLOUGHLANDS UNDER ORCHARDS: ALL THE KENTISH WEALD]
We had already learnt, miles westward of this, that the Old Road
does not take to the crest of a hill without some good reason, but
that once there it often remains, especially if there is a spur upon
which it can fall gently down to the lower levels.
The lane we were following observed such a rule. It ran along the
north of Godmersham Park, just following the highest point of the
hill, and I wondered whether here, as in so many other places, it had
not formed a natural boundary for the division of land; but I have had
no opportunity of examining the history of this enclosure. Chilham
Park marches with Godmersham; where one ends and the other begins the
road passed through the palings (and we with it) and went on in the
shape of a clear ridge, planted often with trees, right down to the
mound on which stands Chilham Castle.
Down in the valley below, something much older bore witness to the
vast age of this corner of inhabited land: the first barrow to be
opened in England; the tomb in which Camden (whom Heaven forgive)
thought that a Roman soldier lay; in which the country people still
believe that the great giant Julaber was buried, but which is the
memorial of something far too old to have a name.
This castle and this grave are the entry into that host of antiquities
which surrounds upon every side the soil of Canterbury. In every point
of the views which would strike us in the last few miles, the history
of this island would be apparent.
* * * * *
[Illustration]
From the mound on which Chilham Castle stands to the farm called
Knockholt, just two miles away, is what I believe to be a gap in the
Old Road, and I will give my reasons for that conviction. Did I not
hold it, my task would be far easier, for all the maps give the Way
continuously from point to point.
Up to the mound of Chilham the path is clear. After Knockholt it is
equally clear, and has, for that matter, been studied and mapped by
the highest authority in England.[42] But to bridge the space between
is not as easy as some writers would imagine.
It will be apparent from this sketch-map that between Chilham and
Knockholt there rises a hill. On the south-east of it flows the Stour,
with the modern main road alongside of it; on the north two lanes,
coming to an angle, lead through a hamlet called Old Wives' Lees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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