England -- Antiquities; England -- Description and travel; Roads -- Great Britain
There is a tradition that the pilgrims of the later Middle Ages went
through Chilham and then turned back along these northern lanes,
passing through Old Wives' Lees. This tradition may be trusted. They
may have had some special reason, probably some devotional reason,
for thus going out of their way, as we found them to have had at
Compton. If their action in this is a good guide (as their action
usually is) to the trace of the Old Road, well and good; there is then
no appreciable gap, for a path leads to Knockholt and could only
correspond to the Old Road; but I should imagine that here, as at
Merstham, the pilgrims may have deceived us. They may have made a
detour for the purpose of visiting some special shrine, or for some
other reason which is now forgotten. It is difficult to believe that a
prehistoric trail would turn such sharp corners, for the only time in
all this hundred and twenty miles, without some obvious reason, and
that it should choose for the place in which to perform this evolution
the damp and northern side of a rather loamy hill. I cannot but
believe that the track went over the side of the hill upon the
southern side, but I will confess that if it did so there is here the
longest and almost the only unbridged gap in the whole of the
itinerary. I am confirmed in my belief that it went over the southern
side from the general alignment, from the fact that the known path
before Chilham goes to the south of the castle mound, that this would
lead one to the south of the church, and so over the southern shoulder
of the hill; but, if it did so, ploughed land and the careful culture
of hop-gardens have destroyed all traces of it. I fancied that
something could be made of an indication about a quarter of a mile
before Knockholt Farm, but I doubt whether it was really worth the
trouble of examining.[43]
From the farm, right up through Bigberry Wood, we were on a track not
only easy to recognise, but already followed, as I have said, by the
first of authorities upon the subject.
We came after a mile of the wood to the old earthwork which was at
once the last and the greatest of the prehistoric remains upon the Old
Road, and the first to be connected with written history.
* * * * *
It was a good place to halt: to sit on the edge of the gravelly bank,
which had been cast up there no one knows how many centuries ago, and
to look eastward out towards Canterbury.
The fort was not touched with the memory of the Middle Ages: it was
not our goal, for that was the church of St. Thomas, but it was the
most certain and ancient thing of all that antiquity which had been
the meaning of the road, and it stood here on the last crest of so
many heights from which we had seen so many valleys in these eight
days.
History and the prehistoric met at this point only.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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