England -- Antiquities; England -- Description and travel; Roads -- Great Britain
Elsewhere we had found very much of what men had done before they
began to write down their deeds. We had passed the barrows and the
entrenchments, and the pits from whence coins with names, but without
a history or a date, had been dug, and we had trodden on hard ground
laid down at fords by men who had left no memory. We had seen also a
very great many battlefields of which record exists. We had marched
where Sweyn marched; Cheriton had been but a little way upon our
right; we had seen Alton; the Roman station near Farnham had stood
above us; the great rout of Ockley had lain not far off below our
passage of the Mole; and we had recalled the double or treble memory
of Otford, and of the Medway valley, where the invader perpetually met
the armies of the island.
But in all these there were two clean divisions: either the thing was
archaic--a subject for mere guess-work; or it was clear history, with
no prehistoric base that we knew of behind it.
On this hill the two categories mingled, and a bridge was thrown
between them. For it was here that the Roman first conquered. This was
that defence which the Tenth Legion stormed: the entrenchment which
was the refuge for Canterbury; and the river which names the battle
was that dignified little stream the Stour, rolling an even tide
below.
The common people, who have been thought to be vacant of history, or
at the best to distort it, have preserved a memory of this fight for
two thousand years.
I remembered as I sat there how a boy, a half-wit, had told me on a
pass in Cumberland that a great battle had been fought there between
two kings; he did not know how long ago, but it had been a famous
fight. I did not believe him then, but I know now that he had hold of
a tradition, and the king who fought there was not a George or a
James, but Rufus, eight hundred years before. As I considered these
things and other memories halting at this place, I came to wish that
all history should be based upon legend. For the history of learned
men is like a number of separate points set down very rare upon a
great empty space, but the historic memories of the people are like a
picture. They are one body whose distortion one can correct, but the
mass of which is usually sound in stuff, and always in spirit.
Thinking these things I went down the hill with my companions, and I
reoccupied my mind with the influence of that great and particular
story of St. Thomas, whose shadow had lain over the whole of this
road, until in these last few miles it had come to absorb it
altogether.
The way was clear and straight like the flight of a bolt; it spanned a
steep valley, passed a windmill on the height beyond, fell into the
Watling Street (which here took on its alignment), and within a mile
turned sharp to the south, crossed the bridge, and through the
Westgate led us into Canterbury.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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