England -- Antiquities; England -- Description and travel; Roads -- Great Britain
He set out then, and for the first few hours--in theory for close
upon twenty-seven miles, and practically for more than twenty of the
fifty-three he had to traverse--the French coast was still in sight on
such days as could tempt him to cross the sea.
Now, by a happy accident, some of the highest land in the south of
England stands dominating the narrowest part of this approach from
France. Our Downs in Sussex are commonly receded from the sea-coast;
from Brighton westward, their slope up from it is gentle, their
escarpment is on the further side, and they are often veiled by the
reek of the land. All the way from Beachy Head nothing gives a true
mark until you get to this high headland of St. Catherine's Point,
which overlooks the narrowest part of the passage.
One must have sailed across here to know how powerful is that hill. It
stands steep up out of the sea, it is twice as high as Beachy Head,
more than half as high again as Dover Cliff, and though it is but
steep turf and not white chalk, it stands up so against the light
looking southward, that one may see it at not much less than thirty
miles distance as one runs northward so, with the westerly wind just
aft of the beam and making for the land. Even in a haze it will stand
above the mist and indicate the shore with its head so lifted as to
show quite plain in the clearer sky. All this argument will be evident
to those who know what a land-fall means. Even to-day, with the
compass and the chart, it is the method of all our fishermen in the
narrow seas to make some light or foreland, rather than to lay down a
course; the violence and the changes of the channel current make it a
surer method than any reckoning. In the first days a land-fall was
everything. Every memory or relic of primitive navigation shows it a
feeling-out for the high, conspicuous blue cloud, which, when you have
fixed it once above the horizon, stands permanent and constant,
turning at last into no cloud, but an evidence of human things after
the emptiness of the sea.
The high land then, of itself, all but bridged the gap. In pure theory
one might just catch sight of a fire on the top of St. Catherine's
before one had seen the last of a similar flare upon the hills of the
Cotentin, and in actual practice, in clear weather, it is but a very
short run of fifteen miles or so from the last sight of the French
coast to the making of St. Catherine's upon the horizon before one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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