For the preparation of the green olives “a la Sevillane,” the fruit is
first treated with alkali, then washed in clear water, after which it is
put into 2 or 3 per cent boiled brine, where after a time fermentation
starts, which imparts a slight lactic acid taste to the fruit. It is
then washed in water, graded for size, and put in barrels with a 5 or 6%
salt, when they are ready for consumption.
The half ripe olives are put in a boiled brine of 12 to 15% for six
days, after which they are washed in running water and then put in jars
in a 6 to 8% brine with a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme and fennel.
Olives prepared in this way are called “a la Provencale.” A variation on
this method, called “a la Madrilene” is to put the olives in barrels,
after the preliminary salting and washing, in 10% brine with red
pimiento, pepper corns, laurel, thyme, and tomato purée.
The black olives are gathered at the time of the change in color, and
put in water, renewed every 12 hours, until the bitterness has
disappeared, which requires 40 to 50 days, sometimes even longer. They
are then put into brine.
The large olive “La Tanche” after sorting and cleaning is put directly
into a 10 to 15% brine in wooden casks or cement tanks which hold from
4,000 to 6,000 kilos. When the bitterness has been abstracted, they are
ready for sale. The brine is decanted and held until the following year.
To prepare them so that they may be ready for sale sooner, the fruit is
run over a roller provided with fine points which perforate the skin,
after which the olives are put in layers and sprinkled generously with
salt. They are stirred frequently, and when they “sweat,” they are put
in barrels with pepper corns and bay leaves, or in jars with olive oil
and condiments, or they may be put in jars without any addition as they
are preserved by their own oil and the absorbed salt.
The methods of preparation cited are those used for olives consumed in
foreign countries, very few thus prepared being imported, as they are
known only to olive connoisseurs.
Imported Green Olives
Nearly all the green olives used in this country come from Spain and are
generally known as “Queen olives.” In years of shortage a few come from
Italy, Greece, and France. They are hand picked, cleaned, treated in the
usual way with lye, and washed, but during this process care is
exercised to prevent them being exposed to the air as it is desired to
retain the green color. They are then graded for size and quality and
placed in huge casks or “pipes” with sufficient brine to cover them.
The “pipes” are exposed to the sun to favor the fermentation which
requires six weeks or more, depending upon the temperature. During the
fermentation, the olives change slowly from deep green to golden. The
pipes hold from 160 to 180 gallons and are used for shipping the olives
to this country. Ten per cent brine is used for filling the casks, but
the brine weakens during the curing and is usually 7 or 7-1/2% at the
finish.
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