The olives are placed in an alkaline solution, usually sodium hydrate as
it is stronger in action than potassium hydrate. The strength varies
with the different packers but is generally in the neighborhood of
1-1/2%. After 6 to 8 hours, the lye is drawn off and the olives exposed
to the air in order that they may oxidize and darken, since the lye
removes some of the natural color. The operation is repeated with the
same strength or less of lye solution and the fruit exposed to the air
until examination of the pulp shows that the lye has penetrated to the
pit. The lye solution is then replaced with clear water which is changed
twice a day, until the lye and bitterness are removed, which requires
from 4 to 8 days. The olives are then treated with brine solutions,
starting with 1%, and increasing the strength at intervals of about 2
days until about 4% is used, when they are ready to be put in glass jars
or cans and sealed.
The brine is used very weak at the start and gradually increased so that
the osmotic action may be so controlled as not to cause the fruit to
shrivel as it would if placed in a strong solution at the start. Some
packers permit the olives to stay in the weak brine long enough for
fermentation to take place as done with the imported green olives so as
to develop an acid flavor. The more recent tendency, however, is toward
packing them with the least possible change, and to depend upon the
distinctive natural flavor of the fruit itself. A similar tendency
toward retaining the natural color, rather than that induced by
oxidation, might be advantageous.
If it be the intent to hold the olives in bulk, they are treated with
increasingly strong brines until 10
[Illustration: Curing Vats]
to 12-1/2% is used, the latter amount being required to carry them
safely through the summer.
The process is modified in practise to suit the conditions, as
variations in varieties of fruit, in temperature, and in the lye have to
be considered. There are also variations in practise due to individual
experience. During the time the olives are in the various solutions they
are stirred frequently, so as to change their position in the vats, and
also to change the solution in contact with them. The stirring was, and
is done yet in some cases, by hand, with wooden paddles, which is
laborious besides causing more or less damage to the fruit. Recently
compressed air has been piped to the vats and directed into the
solutions with sufficient force to keep the olives agitated. This method
is said to hasten the action of the lye solutions with consequent
improvement in the fruit. It also obviates the drawing off the solutions
and the exposure of the fruit to the air, as a certain amount of
oxidation takes place in the solution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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