Country life; London (England) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Outdoor books
At London Bridge the door is opened by some one who gets out, and the
cold air comes in; there is a rush of people in damp coats, with
dripping umbrellas, and time enough to notice the archaeologically
interesting wooden beams which support the roof of the South-Eastern
station. Antique beams they are, good old Norman oak, such as you may
sometimes find in very old country churches that have not been
restored, such as yet exist in Westminster Hall, temp. Rufus or
Stephen, or so. Genuine old woodwork, worth your while to go and see.
Take a sketch-book and make much of the ties and angles and bolts; ask
Whistler or Macbeth, or some one to etch them, get the Royal
Antiquarian Society to pay a visit and issue a pamphlet; gaze at them
reverently and earnestly, for they are not easily to be matched in
London. Iron girders and spacious roofs are the modern fashion; here we
have the Middle Ages well-preserved--slam! the door is banged-to,
onwards, over the invisible river, more red signals and rain, and
finally the terminus. Five hundred well-dressed and civilised savages,
wet, cross, weary, all anxious to get in--eager for home and dinner;
five hundred stiffened and cramped folk equally eager to get out--mix
on a narrow platform, with a train running off one side, and a detached
engine gliding gently after it. Push, wriggle, wind in and out, bumps
from portmanteaus, and so at last out into the street.
Now, how are you going to get into an omnibus? The street is "up," the
traffic confined to half a narrow thoroughfare, the little space
available at the side crowded with newsvendors whose contents bills are
spotted and blotted with wet, crowded, too, with young girls,
bonnetless, with aprons over their heads, whose object is simply to do
nothing--just to stand in the rain and chaff; the newsvendors yell
their news in your ears, then, finding you don't purchase, they "Yah!"
at you; an aged crone begs you to buy "lights"; a miserable young
crone, with pinched face, offers artificial flowers--oh, Naples! Rush
comes the rain, and the gas-lamps are dimmed; whoo-oo comes the wind
like a smack; cold drops get in the ears and eyes; clean wristbands are
splotched; greasy mud splashed over shining boots; some one knocks the
umbrella round, and the blast all but turns it. "Wake up!"--"Now
then--stop here all night?"--"Gone to sleep?" They shout, they curse,
they put their hands to their mouths trumpet wise and bellow at each
other, these cabbies, vanmen, busmen, all angry at the block in the
narrow way. The 'bus-driver, with London stout, and plenty of it,
polishing his round cheeks like the brasswork of a locomotive, his neck
well wound and buttressed with thick comforter and collar, heedeth not,
but goes on his round, now fast, now slow, always stolid and rubicund,
the rain running harmlessly from him as if he were oiled. The
conductor, perched like the showman's monkey behind, hops and twists,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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