Natural history -- Scotland -- Orkney; Orkney (Scotland) -- Description and travel; Orkney (Scotland) -- History
So runs an old island rhyme, and surely never was there an island so
beaten upon and shouted round by the angry tides. It sets a black front
of jagged rocks to the Atlantic on the west, and the great billows,
rushing on the rocks, send spouts of spray high in the air, to whirl
eastward over the gradual slope of the isle. All day long the tide sweeps
past on either side, boiling and eddying like a swift and deep river.
When the wind is in the north-west and a strong ebb-tide is running, then
is the time to see the roosts in all their glory; for the inrolling ocean
swell meets the outrushing tide in the narrow channels, and the white
waves leap and roar as if some
“wallowing monster spouted
His foam fountains in the sea.”
To see this mad turmoil of the roost on a wild winter day is strange
and terrible; but when the white breakers shout and toss themselves in
the sunlight of a still June morning there is a paradoxical charm in
the sudden outburst of leaping, sparkling foam amid the blue waters,
unruffled of any wind, that the wildest storm of winter can never claim.
There is an even stronger fascination in the swift, dark, silent rush of
the tides, ceaseless along the shores, sweeping in with the flood and
whirling out again with the ebb, and with the little green isle in their
midst setting its steep front to the angry ocean, but sheltering with its
two long eastward points a quiet sandy bay where no current ever comes.
All along the coast, on either side of Eynhallow Sound, are low green
mounds, marking the places where once were the homes of the prehistoric
Orcadians, that Celtic or Pictish race which the conquering Norsemen
destroyed so completely that there is not in all the place-names of the
isles any trace of their forgotten tongue. Amidst such surroundings, one
has only to look at Eynhallow to know that it must have gathered legend
and tradition in the long years.
In Rousay there still lingers a tale of the breaking of the spell that
held Eynhallow sea-bound; for “once upon a time” the isle was enchanted,
and visible to human eyes only at rare intervals. It would rise suddenly
out of the sea, and vanish as suddenly before any mortal could reach it.
And if any one should feel inclined to doubt this tale, can we not point
him to the isle of Heather-Bleather, which is still held by the spell of
the sea-folk, and appears and disappears even unto this day?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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