Natural history -- Scotland -- Orkney; Orkney (Scotland) -- Description and travel; Orkney (Scotland) -- History
In another mile and a half, after passing Lyre Geo and Inganess Geo, two
impressive examples of how rocks decay, we reach the Castle of North
Gaulton, a singularly slender and graceful pillar of rock. Then we cross
a stretch of low ground, after which there is a steep climb up to the
summit of the Black Craig. The height of the hill is 360 feet, and that
of the cliff little less, while its sheer plunge down into the waves
makes it look higher than it really is.
As we descend towards the south we pass over a district which is sacred
in the eyes of geologists, for it was here that Hugh Miller discovered
the fossil remains of the _Asterolepis_ or “star-scale” fish, a monster
of the ancient days when the rocks of this hill were being laid down
as mud and sand on the bottom of a primeval lake. The great geologist
describes this district as “the land of fish,” and the rock strata fairly
swarm with fossils.
The shore in front is now low and tame, but the whole district from hill
to sea is fertile and well peopled. That it was so in the past also we
see sufficient proof. For there, on the shore of Breckness, stand the
ruins of a mansion built by Bishop Graeme, who knew well where to build;
and a mile beyond it, in the lonely churchyard by the lonely sea, rises
a fragment of an ancient church. There stood the church of Stromness in
former days, and there also the manse; while the names of Innertown and
Outertown doubtless refer to their relative nearness to this centre of
parish life.
[Illustration: _Round about Stromness._
1. Dundas Street. 2. Church Road. 3. Victoria Street. 4. From the South
End. 5. From the Harbour. 6. From the Hill.]
But times have changed, and it is no longer fertility of soil but
convenience for trade which draws men together in close neighbourhood,
and so the modern Stromness arose on the shore of that romantic little
bay which spreads out beneath us as we cross the ridge to the left. That
landlocked sea, and not the rocky hillside, was the source of its life
and growth; and as we note the frequent steamships and the clustered
fishing-fleet we realize that it is still the sea which brings prosperity
to the little gray town.
Here, then, our circuit of the Mainland fitly ends, for in the opinion of
many the town of Stromness, the “ness of the tide-stream,” is the fairest
spot in all the islands. However this may be, it is indeed fair, and the
Stromness boy will wander far and sail over many seas ere he will find a
fairer scene than his island home;—fair when it lies before him under the
pearl-gray light of its northern sky; fairer still, perchance, when the
golden haze of memory gilds the landscape, and the joyous vision of the
outward eye has given place to the wistful retrospect of the imagination.
[Illustration: _The Black Craig._]
SKETCHES BY HUGH MILLER.
The Dwarfie Stone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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