In that seven-leagued dream, she forgot Paliser, the delinquent
Tamburini, the trick that Lennox had played. In a golden gloom, on a
wide stage, to a house packed to the roof, Cassy was bowing. Her final
roulade had just floated on and beyond, lost now in cyclonic bravas.
"It was the Duc d'Aumale," Paliser was saying.
"Eh?" Abruptly Cassy awoke.
"Or, if not, some other chap who, recognising it, ordered his regiment
to halt and present arms."
"To whom?"
"To the vineyard where the grape in that bottle was grown."
Cassy shook out a napkin. "You talk just like my janitress. I never
understand a word she says."
But now a waiter was bringing delicacies other than those obtainable in
Harlem; in particular, a dish that had the merit of pleasing Cassy.
"What is it?" she asked.
"Muskrat."
"What!"
"Muskrat with terrapin for a pseudonym. The pseudonym shows imagination.
Let us be thankful for that. Gastronomy is bankrupt. Formerly it was
worshipped. Formerly gastronomy was a goddess. To-day the sole tributes
consist in bills-of-fare that are just like the Sahara minus the oases.
It is the oases we want and it is muskrat we get. That is all wrong. The
degree of culture that any nation may claim is shown in its cookery and
if there is anything viler than what we get here it must be served in
Berlin. It must have been Solon who said: 'Tell me what you eat and I
will tell you who you are.' He added, or should have, that animals feed,
man dines and, when permitted, dines devoutly. There are dishes, as
there are wines, to which one should rise and bow. But hereabouts it is
only by special dispensation that one gets them. In a hotel such as this
there is an outward show of reverence, but it is sheer hypocrisy; of
real piety there is none, a sham attempt to observe the sacred rites
without knowing how. I admit I don't know either. From me the divine
afflatus has been withheld. But elsewhere I have been conscious of the
presence. Once or twice I was blessed. Here, though, in default of
shrines there should be chairs. Harvard, Yale, Columbia, should
establish a few. When I was in college I was taught everything that it
is easiest to forget. If the youth of the land were instructed in
gastronomy we would all be wiser and better. Chairs on gastronomy, that
is what we need!"
Cassy laughed. "Why not tables?"
Paliser laughed with her. The laughter was a bond. It joined them
however tenuously. It was what he had been driving at. Accustomed to
easy successes, Cassy's atmosphere, with its flavour of standoffishness
and indifference, appealed to this man, who had supped on the facile and
who wanted the difficult. Cassy, he could have sworn, would supply it
and, if he had, he would have sworn very truly.
Meanwhile the muskrat had gone. Dishes less false but equally fair had
followed. Now, with the air of a conjurer, the waiter just showed them
an entremets which he hastened to serve. It was a soufflee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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