~Srinagar~ (34.5 N., 74.5 E.), the summer capital of the Maharaja of Kashmir, is beautifully situated on both banks of the river Jhelam at a level of 5250 feet above the sea. To the north are the Hariparvat or Hill of Vishnu with a rampart built by Akbar and the beautiful Dal lake. Every visitor must be rowed up its still waters to the Nasim Bagh, a grove of plane (_chenar_) trees, laid out originally in the reign of the same Emperor. Between the lake and the town is the Munshi Bagh, in and near which are the houses of Europeans including the Residency. The splendid plane trees beside the river bank, to which house boats are moored, and the beautiful gardens attached to some of the houses, make this a very charming quarter. The Takht i Suliman to the west of Srinagar is crowned by a little temple, whose lower walls are of great age. The town itself is intersected by evil-smelling canals and consists in the main of a jumble of wooden houses with thatched roofs. Sanitary abominations have been cleansed from time to time by great fires and punished by severe outbreaks of cholera. The larger part of the existing city is on the left side. The visitor may be content to view the parts of the town to be seen as he is rowed down the broad waterway from the Munshi Bagh passing under picturesque wooden bridges, and beside temples with shining metal roofs and the beautiful mosque of Shah Hamadan. On the left bank below the first bridge is the Shergarhi with the Maharaja's houses and the Government Offices. Opposite is a fine _ghat_ or bathing place with stone steps. Between the third and fourth bridges on the right bank is Shah Hamadan's mosque, a carved cedar house with Buddhist features, totally unlike the ordinary Indian mosque. The stone mosque close by on the opposite side, built by Mir Jahan, was seemingly rejected by Muhammadans as founded by a woman, and is now a State granary. The Jama Masjid is on the north side, but not on the river bank. The tomb of the great king, Zain ul Abidin, is below the fourth bridge, which bears his name. In the same quarter are the storehouses of the dealers in carpets and art wares and the Mission School. The last should be visited by anyone who wishes to see what a manly education can make of material in some respects unpromising. [Illustration: Fig. 150 Mosque of the Shah Hamadan.] CHAPTER XXX OTHER PLACES OF NOTE I. PANJAB. (_a_) _Ambala Division._ ~Ambala~, 30.2 N.--76.4 E. Population 80,131, of which 54,223 in Cantonments. A creation of British rule. It became the headquarters of the Political Agent for the Cis-Sutlej States in 1823, and the Cantonment was established in 1843. The Native City and the Civil Lines lie some miles to the N.W. of the Cantonment. Headquarters of district and division. ~Bhiwani~ (~Hissar~), 28.5 N.--76.8 E. Headquarters of _tahsil_ in Hissar. Population 31,100. On Rewari--Ferozepore branch of Rajputana--Malwa Railway. Has a brisk trade with Rajputana.