The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Our masters, the ancients, have left us fine examples on this head. In
vain did impertinent sumptuary laws, enemies of progress, strive to
repress the luxury of the farm-yards. These precautions on behalf of
abstinence against the magiric genius were unceasingly met by a
resistance, as energetic as it was truly Roman. Fannius, Archius,
Cornelius, could make martyrs; but let us say, with pride, good cheer
never had cause to envy them deserters and apostates. One of these
tyrannical decrees was just published; a tribune of the people, a man of
heart and taste, undertook to have it repealed. He courageously mounted
the rostrum, and cried, with an inspired voice: “Romans! you are treated
like slaves. By the gods! what can be more strange than the new law?
They would force you to sobriety, whether you will or no! They would
impose temperance on you! Ah! renounce this pretended liberty, of which
you are so jealous, since you are no longer allowed to ruin yourselves,
each one according to his fancy, or die of indigestion if you please.”
This discourse was received as it deserved to be, and unanimous applause
proved to the orator that he was addressing men capable of understanding
him. But, alas! this excellent tribune had a dangerous enemy: the
censor, Lucius Flaccus, a sort of fanatic teetotaller and carniphobis of
that time, had sufficient credit to cause this worthy citizen to be
driven from the senate. But Rome revenged him by devouring more poultry
than ever.[XVII-3]
In the early ages of the Church, poultry in general was regarded as a
food for fast days; and this opinion was founded on the text in Genesis,
where it is said that birds and fishes were created on the fifth day,
whereas quadrupeds were created on the sixth.[XVII-4]
St. Benedict, in his rule, does not formally forbid the monks any other
flesh than that of quadrupeds; and St. Columbanus, in his, permits the
monks the flesh of poultry, in default of fish. The Greek monks ate it
down to the 10th century.
THE COCK.
An object of divine worship in Syria,[XVII-5] the cock was considered by
almost every nation as the emblem of vigilance and courage.[XVII-6]
Thus, heathen antiquity consecrated it to the god of battles.[XVII-7]
Themistocles, marching with his army against Xerxes, King of Persia, met
with some cocks fighting furiously; he made his troops halt, that they
might observe them, and he then addressed a spirited discourse to them
on the subject. He conquered, and on his return to Athens, desired that
every year a cock-fight should commemorate his victory.[XVII-8] These
cruel games soon spread throughout Greece, and feathered champions were
reared with great care, and obtained at a high price from Rhodes,
Bœotia, Mela, and Chalcis.[XVII-9]
Italy also wished to enjoy this barbarous pastime. At Pergamus, any
spectator might throw a cock into the arena, and a prize was awarded to
the lucky possessor of the bird who remained master of the field of
battle.[XVII-10]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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