The _Woodcock_, which is thought to be the _rustica perdix_ of Martial,[XX-88] and the _Snipe_ do not appear to have obtained from the gastrophilists of antiquity that attention they deserved. This delicious game was ill-appreciated in Italy and at Athens. History, that “conscience of posterity,” reproaches them with this oversight, and is astonished that the _Curlew_ should have usurped, particularly in Greece,[XX-89] a pre-eminence which it certainly does not deserve. “The fat of the snipe is of a most delicate savour, which it acquires only after the first appearance of the frosty season. It is cooked like the woodcock, without being drawn.”--VIEILLOT. The _gourmets_ have a way of knowing when the flesh of the woodcock is arrived at the degree of flavour required to be sought after: the bird is suspended by the beam-feather of the middle of its tail; when the body gets loose and full, then is the time to eat it. “The woodcock is cooked with the entrails in, which, being pounded with what they contain, form its own and best seasoning.”--_Sonnini._ The _Crow_, an object of superstitious worship among the Egyptians,[XX-90] offered to the less scrupulous inhabitants of Alexandria a dish unequalled in delicacy;[XX-91] but which never seems to have tempted the nations of the west. The _Turtle Dove_,[XX-92] whose timid innocence caused it to be revered in Assyria,[XX-93] had a less glorious destiny at Rome. It was roasted, and epicures greedily devoured the legs.[XX-94] The _Lark_ joined to the delicate flavour of its flesh a more precious quality; either roast or boiled, it infallibly cured persons attacked with the colic.[XX-95] We cannot say whether it possesses this useful property at the present day. “The common lark, which is called at Paris _mauviette_, is generally looked upon as a wholesome, delicate, and light game. It is dressed in various ways; and the _gourmets_ appreciate the value of the excellent lark pies which have established the reputation of the town of Pithiviers in France.”--SONNINI. The Romans went to almost fabulous expenses in order to procure game. What enormous sums, may we not imagine, were given for those dishes of flamingoes’ tongues and ostriches’ brains already mentioned! What must have been the cost of the seven thousand birds which the brother of Vitellius served to the voracious emperor![XX-96] And yet all these follies fall far short of those they committed through their love of fish.