The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
That celebrated naturalist, Buffon’s pupil and competitor, assures us
that several eastern nations consider the smoke arising from the eggs of
scates, thrown on burning coals, and inhaled by the mouth and nostrils,
as an excellent remedy against intermittent fever.[XXI-170] It would
cost but little to make the experiment.
SALMON.
It is reported that the salmon was thus named on account of its frequent
leaping.[XXI-171] It has been sung by Ausonius.[XXI-172] Its absence
left a chasm in the delights of Greece, and it was late before it became
known in Rome. Pliny is the first of Latin authors who name it.[XXI-173]
Ichthyophagy will cherish the memory of this laborious author. He speaks
with praise of the salmon taken in the Garonne and Dordogne. He extols
those of the Rhine, but he seems to give a decided preference to those
magnificent fishes covered with a silvery mail, which disport in the
limpid waters of that picturesque and beautiful Aquitaine.[XXI-174][L]
Two centuries ago, there was such a great quantity of salmon taken in
the rivers of Scotland, that, instead of being considered a delicate
dish, it served commonly as food for servants, who it is said,
stipulated sometimes, that they should not be obliged to eat that
common, tasteless aliment more than five times per week.[XXI-175]
SEPIA, OR, CUTTLE-FISH.
Pliny has extolled the constancy of conjugal affection in the
cuttle-fish, and the courage with which the male defends his companion
in the moment of danger.[XXI-176] The poet Persius describes its flight,
protected by the thick, black liquid with which it blinds its enemies.
Apicius, struck more by its succulent qualities, opens this fish,
empties it, and stuffs it with cooked brains, to which he adds raw eggs
and pepper; he then boils it in a seasoning of pepper, alisander,
parsley seed, and cooked wine, mixed with honey, wine, and
garum.[XXI-177] Thus prepared, the cuttle-fish passed at Rome as an
estimable dish, and which might be offered at an unpretending repast.
SWORDFISH.
The Greeks were fond of the swordfish, and often partook of it,[XXI-178]
with a sauce of which oil was the basis, and with which were mixed yolks
of eggs, leeks, garlic, and cheese.[XXI-179] The Romans thought very
little of this fish, and prayed Neptune to send it far from their nets.
SHAD.
The shad was caught during the summer, and sold to the people,[XXI-180]
who boiled it and dished it up with strong herbs and oil. This plebeian
fish was excluded from all respectable banquets.[Y]
“Modern taste has allowed this estimable fish to re-appear on the
table, where it is always seen with pleasure. This fish is caught in
most of the great rivers of Europe, Asia, and northern Africa.”--BOSC.
RHOMBO, OR, RHOMBUS.
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