The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Apicius esteemed highly oysters from the lake of Lucrinus, from Brindes,
and Abydos, and studied deeply the succulent qualities of this shell
fish. He knew how to preserve them fat, fresh, and alive, during long
and fatiguing journeys; and, thanks to a delicate attention on the part
of this immortal _bon vivant_, the great Trajan was enabled to regale
himself with oysters sent from Rome while carrying on a distant war
against the Parthians.[XXI-234] This present of the king of epicureans
to the master of the world was worthy of both the giver and receiver,
but it completed the ruin of the generous Apicius.
The Roman ladies shared their husbands’ taste, and eagerly partook of
oysters from the lake of Lucrinus, brought into fashion by Sergius
Orata, and when their fatigued stomachs struggled painfully with
gluttony, this delicacy soon obtained an easy triumph by disposing the
appetite to fresh exertions. The means of defence, however, were not
very formidable; sometimes a little warm and limpid water--oftener a
dazzling plume from the bird of Juno--hastened the struggle, and,
without effort, decided the victory.[XXI-235] This ingenious method was
very much relished by polyphagists, and the Emperor Vitellius
particularly honoured it.[XXI-236]
Cape Pelorus furnished the Greeks with highly prized oysters,[XXI-237]
which were eaten alone, fried, stewed, or nicely dressed with
marsh-mallows, dock-leaves, and with some kind of fish.[XXI-238]
The Romans at length became disgusted with those found on the coasts of
Italy, or in the Dardanelles; an instinct of greediness caused them to
prefer oysters from the Atlantic ocean, and especially from the shores
of Armorica, now called Britany.[XXI-239] Bordeaux supplied imperial
tables, and this high distinction is sufficient for its praise.[XXI-240]
It may not be useless to remark here, that no sooner had Ausonius
praised this fish in his lines than it was forgotten, and did not
re-appear till the 17th century on the tables of distinguished
personages. May our descendants be more just than our forefathers.
At Rome oysters were served with a seasoning of pepper and alisander,
mixed with the yolks of eggs, vinegar, garum, oil, wine, and a little
honey.[XXI-241]
They were preserved in a vase smeared with pitch, washed with vinegar,
and hermetically closed.[XXI-242]
“Oysters of a fine quality are generally of easy digestion, but not very
nourishing, particularly when eaten raw. They are sought for to open the
appetite, which is the case, owing to the nature of the water, agreeably
salted, contained in them. Some mention is made of persons who can eat
from fifteen to twenty dozen without being ill. It is not the same when
cooked; then they become hard, more tough, and, consequently,
indigestible. They are also eaten pickled with vinegar and sweet herbs.
In this state they are sent to countries distant from the sea, piled up
one upon the other, without the shell, in small barrels.”--DE
BLAINVILLE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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