The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
SEA-HEDGEHOG.
Under this denomination were classed all animals, more or less
orbicular, whose envelope bristles with calcareous points, on which
account they were compared to hedgehogs.
The Greeks thought them delicious when caught at the full moon,[XXI-243]
and prepared with vinegar, sweet cooked wine, parsley, and
mint.[XXI-244] Oxymel often replaced vinegar.[XXI-245]
The Romans also esteemed highly this dish, which was recommended to
sluggish appetites under the auspices of the faculty;[XXI-246] and
Apicius furnished the following recipe for the preparation of it:--
“Procure a new saucepan,” thus says the great master, “place in it a
little oil, garum, sweet wine, and pepper. When the mixture begins to
boil, stuff the sea hedgehogs, then submit them to the action of a slow
fire; add a large quantity of pepper, and serve.”[XXI-247]
MUSSEL.
The two great nations of antiquity have granted uncommon praise to
mussels, and partook of them at their most sumptuous feasts. At the
wedding repast of the graceful Hebe, Jupiter wished the inhabitants of
Olympus to exchange for this shell fish their celestial though
monotonous ambrosia.[XXI-248] Epicharmus, who records the fact, does not
inform us with what sauce the _chef de cuisine_ of the gods dressed the
flesh of those mussels. The reader must thus content himself with the
seasoning invented by simple mortals, and which appeared good to them.
It was composed of a suitable mixture of pepper, alisander, parsley,
mint, with a quantity of cummin seed, a little honey, vinegar, and
garum.[XXI-249] With this mixture they covered the boiled and widely
opened mussels, and the guests found it impossible to satiate themselves
with this dish, so much more digestible and nourishing than
oysters.[XXI-250]
SCALLOP.
The effeminate inhabitants of Tarentum, the abode of luxury, delighted
in good living, and boasted of possessing the finest scallops of
Campania, and of the whole empire.[XXI-251] The infallible authority of
this voluptuous city in matters of taste gave a surprising vogue to this
fish. Rome, and all the population of Italy, believed it was forced to
eat the scallops of Tarentum prepared with oysters, and at other times
with mussels.
It now remains to be mentioned that some kinds of _testacea_ appeared
worthy of the reputation they acquired among the ancients.
TORTOISE.
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