The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
“In Germany, the various parts of the frog are eaten, the skin and
intestine excepted; but in France they are satisfied with the hind legs,
which, by the size of their muscles, are themselves equivalent to all
the rest. They are dressed with wine as fish, with white or brown sauce;
fried, or roasted; when tender, and properly done, it is a most delicate
dish.”--BOSC.
* * * * *
Before the conclusion of this article, we may as well mention a
frightful fish which modern good taste has banished from our tables, but
which the ancients allowed to appear at theirs. It is the _Polypus_,
highly esteemed both in Greece and Italy, when caught at a certain
period, and its numerous immoderate legs stretched far over the edges of
the dish prepared to receive it.[XXI-271]
This monster was cut in pieces, and eaten with a sauce composed of
pepper, garum, and benzoin.[XXI-272]
It will be easily understood that ancient nations must have early
accustomed themselves to fishing, the origin of which, doubtless, goes
back to the first ages of civilization. The holy writings often mention
fishermen,[XXI-273] fish-hooks, and nets. Homer speaks of them,[XXI-274]
and the poet, Hesiod, who flourished thirty years before Homer,[XXI-275]
places on the shield of Hercules an attentive fisherman, ready to throw
his net over some fish pursued by a dolphin.[XXI-276]
The Egyptians also practised this occupation; of which the following
anecdote is a proof:--
Antony being in Egypt, the beauteous Cleopatra sought to amuse him by
inventing for his entertainment each day new kinds of pleasure; but the
Roman general, seized with a violent love of fishing, fled from the
society of his numerous courtiers, and, alone on the borders of the sea,
or an isolated lake, vainly waiting for the smallest gudgeon, he forgot
long hours of vain expectancy and useless patience. The queen undertook
his cure. She commanded a diver to plunge into the water, and there a
hook a fish to the line of Antony. He, seeing it agitated, joyfully
withdrew it from the water, and unhooked a _salted sardine_. Cleopatra
then exclaimed: “Leave to Egyptians the task of fishing; Romans should
take only kings, cities, and emperors.”[XXI-277]
The inhabitants of Italy fished exactly in the same manner we do at this
day;[XXI-278] but Roman luxury, always greedy of extravagant profusion,
invented those celebrated fish ponds which cost immense sums, both to
build and maintain;[XXI-279] and to which Lucullus, Hortensius, and
Philippus, whom Cicero surnamed the “Tritons of fish pools,”[XXI-280]
consecrated almost entirely their anxiety and fortunes.
This folly was carried to such a height that fish ponds were constructed
on the roofs of houses.[XXI-281] More reasonable persons contented
themselves with bringing river-water into their dining-rooms.[XXI-282]
The fish swam under the table, and it was only necessary to stoop and
pick them out the instant before eating them.[XXI-283]
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