The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Antiquity rendered justice to the lobster, and the taste for it did not
change, being founded on truly estimable and sterling qualities. It was
opened lengthwise, and filled with a gravy, into the composition of
which entered both pepper and coriander. It was then slowly cooked on
the gridiron, and every now and then basted with the same kind of gravy,
with which the flesh became impregnated.[XXI-264]
RIVER CRAYFISH.
The Greeks were remarkably fond of this fish,[XXI-265] especially when
obtained from Alexandria.[XXI-266] They were not less esteemed in Rome,
where they eat them boiled with cummin, and seasoned with pepper,
alisander, parsley, dried mint, and a great quantity of cummin; the
whole carefully and well ground, and mixed with honey, vinegar, and
garum, to which was sometimes added some liquid perfume.[XXI-267]
“Crayfishes can be preserved several days, not too warm, in baskets with
some fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with three-eighths
of an inch of water. If there were enough water in it to cover them,
they would die in a few moments, because their great consumption of air
does not allow them to live in water unless it is continually
renewed.”--BOSC.
CRAB.
Would you like to eat crab sausages? Boil some of these animals; reduce
them to a pulp; mix with this some spikenard, garum, pepper, and eggs;
give to this the ordinary shape of sausages, place them on the stove or
gridiron, and you will, by these means, obtain a delicate and tempting
dish.[XXI-268] Apicius assures us of the fact: Apicius was a
connoisseur!
A crab may also be served whole, boiled, and accompanied by a seasoning
of pepper, cummin, and rue, which the cook skilfully mixes with garum,
honey, oil, and vinegar.[XXI-269]
Is it preferred stuffed? Then fill it with a skilful mixture of cummin,
mint, rue, alisander, pine nuts, and pepper, the whole long soaked in
garum, honey, vinegar, and wine.[XXI-270]
FROGS.
The ancients thought nothing of frogs, which they left at liberty to
propagate. There was such a great number among the Abderites, that these
good people gave up to them their native soil, and left the place in
search of another spot.
At the present day, in some countries, frogs are sought for as a most
agreeable and wholesome food; in other parts--England in
particular--they are disdainfully shunned. But in France there is a
great consumption of them, especially in the spring. About a century
since, they were greatly in fashion at Paris; and it is stated that a
countryman from the province of Auvergne, named Simon, made a
considerable fortune by feeding and fattening them in one of the suburbs
of that city, which were sent to him from Auvergne.
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