But, as we have before remarked, the magiric art always survives revolutions and ruin of empires. Modern Italy inherited the wrecks of Roman cookery, and, thanks to her, Europe is at the present day acquainted with the delights of good cheer, and the charm of joyous repasts. Under the reign of Louis XII. there arose a company of sauce manufacturers, who obtained the exclusive privilege of making sauces. Their statutes (1394) inform us that the famous sauce _à la cameline_, sold by them, was to be composed “of good cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar.” The sauce, _Tence_, was to be made of “good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good verjuice.” We find in Taillevant, the celebrated cook of Charles V. and Charles VI., besides the _cameline_, _l’eau bénite_ (holy water)--the sauce for pike, _le saupiquet_, _le mostechan_, _la gélatine_, _la sauce à l’alose_, _au moût_, that of milk-garlic, cold, red, and green sauces, _sauce Robert_, _Poitevine_, _à Madame rappée_, and _à la dodine_. Platina, a Latin author of the 15th century, speaks of other sauces, in the composition of which sugar was frequently employed, according to the proverb of those times: “Sugar never spoiled sauce.” In the middle ages, poultry, butchers’ meat, and roast game, were never eaten dry, as they are now, any more than fried fish. There were different sauces for all those dishes, and even for the different parts of each animal. The cooks of those days strove to acquire a reputation by inventing strange and grotesque sauces, which had no other merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make, as, for example: “eggs cooked on the spit,” “butter fried or roasted.” &c.[XXII-31] We recognize in some of our most common _ragoûts_, those of which our ancestors were so fond in the middle ages, such as the _bœuf à la mode_, _à la persillade_, _au vinaigre et persil_, _le miroton de bœuf_, _veau percé de gros lard_, _fricassée de poulet_, _blanquette de veau rôti_; but we have lost the _pot-pourri_, composed of beef, veal, mutton, bacon, and vegetables, and the _galimafrée_, a kind of _fricassée_ of fowl, seasoned with wine, verjuice, and spices, and thickened with the famous sauce _cameline_.[XXII-32] The cooks frequently placed on their masters’ tables _ragoûts_ and other dishes borrowed from foreign nations. They had a German _brouet_, a Flemish _chaudeau_, eggs _à la Florentine_, and partridges _à la Catalane_. They knew the _olla_--a mixture of all sorts of vegetables cooked with different kinds of meats, which we owe to the Spaniards, as well as the _ragoût_ of fowl, called _à la Chipolata_, and the _keneffes_--a kind of forced-meat balls made of bread and meat, to which the Germans are very partial, and the _pilau_--a dish of mutton, fowl, and rice, borrowed from the Turks.[XXII-33]