The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The Romans, inheritors of the luxury of Asia and Greece, did not erect a
temple to the greedy Addephagia, goddess of good cheer, who possessed
altars in Sicily;[XXII-22] but they thought it impossible to repay too
highly those who knew how to extend the limits of the pleasures of the
table,[XXII-23] and a generous senator offered his _chef_ at least four
talents, or more than £800 a year.
This is yet but little compared with the magnificence of Antony. He gave
a supper to Cleopatra; that princess praised the delicacy of the feast,
and immediately her lover called for the cook, and presented him with a
city, in recompense.
How times are changed! We, at the present day, treat all this as pompous
and ridiculous prodigality. It is because our somewhat mean epoch judges
the olden times by the narrow ideas of order, foresight, and economy.
The ancients enriched their _Archimagiri_, wasted their revenue in
feasts, and then killed themselves. We have adopted a very different
style of living. But, at the same time, how far are our most sumptuous
banquets behind the most modest collations of Greece and Rome! Lucullus
caused to be served to Cicero and Pompey a little _ambigu_, which cost
£1,000. There were only three of them to partake of it!
The Emperor Claudius had generally six hundred guests at his
table.[XXII-24]
Vitellius did not spend less than £3,200 for each of his
repasts;[XXII-25] and the composition of his favourite dishes required
that vessels should unceasingly ply between the Gulf of Venice and the
Straits of Cadiz.[XXII-26]
It must be confessed that cooks of that gastronomic era had to fulfil an
incessant and most laborious task. What was then more natural than to
abandon to them some thousands of those sesterces, which the profusion
of the master devoured by millions, in the form of phenicopters’
tongues, scarus or parrot-fishes’ livers, and peacocks’ brains?
We see that the Cæsars encouraged this frightful gastronomic monomania.
Tiberius gave more than £3,000 to the author of a dialogue, in which the
interlocutors were mushrooms, fig-peckers, oysters, and
thrushes.[XXII-27]
Galba breakfasted before day-break, and the breakfast would have
enriched a hundred families.[XXII-28] Ælius Verus invented the
_pentapharmacum_, a kind of _Macédoine_, composed of sows’ flanks,
pheasants, peacocks, ham, and wild boars’ flesh.[XXII-29] Geta insisted
upon having as many courses as there were letters in the alphabet, and
each of these courses must contain all the viands whose name began by
the same letter.[XXII-30]
These follies, which cooks were forced to obey, continued to astonish
the world until the moment when Rome--with her gods, the monuments of
her ancient glory, and of her recent turpitudes--crumbled beneath the
invincible weight of that horde of barbarians, that mysterious and
implacable scourge, which Divine vengeance reserved for the punishment
of unheard-of crimes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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