The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The subject we have just slightly touched upon recalls to our
recollection a whim of the charming Sévigné: “_Le café et Racine
passeront_,” said this amiable lady, nearly two hundred years ago. The
beautiful marchioness was mistaken: both coffee and Racine have
remained, and do not appear likely soon to bid us adieu.
CHOCOLATE.
Every one is aware that chocolate is an aliment obtained from the
cocoa-nut, roasted and reduced to paste, with sugar and aromatics.
But first, the choice of cocoa nuts is not indifferent.
Those from Soconusco, from Caracas, and Maracaibo, are the best and
sweetest; it is, however, well to mix with them other kinds, to correct
their insipidity by a certain sharpness far from being unpleasant; thus,
to four parts of Caracas cocoa, earthed--that is, rendered mild by a
sojourn of some weeks under the moist earth--a part of cocoa from the
Antilles, or Maragnon and Para, is added; this kind contains more of
sharp and bitter matter. These cocoas are slightly torrefied in an iron
pan. The Spaniards burn their cocoa much less than the Italians. Being
left to grow cold, this cocoa is slightly crushed, to separate the
envelopes or shells, which are thrown away. However, in England,
Switzerland, and Germany, these shells serve to make, with boiling
water, a warm infusion, mixed with milk and drank in lieu of real
chocolate. The envelopes of torrefied coffee are employed in a similar
manner in the east for the “Sultana coffee.” The mixtures of torrefied
cocoa are reduced into a fat paste of a brown colour, either between
stones, or by means of an iron roller upon a porphyry rock, warmed
underneath by live coals; this paste, regularly ground, is at last
incorporated with sugar, equal to its weight, then it is mixed together
as perfectly as possible. In this _chocolat de santé_ a small quantity
of very fine cinnamon powder is admitted, which makes it more palatable,
and neutralizes the action of the fat and heavy substance, or vegetable
butter, contained in the cocoa.
“The term chocolate belongs, it is said, to the language of the
Mexicans, and is derived from the two words _choco_, sound or noise, and
_atle_, water, because it is beaten in boiling water to make it froth,
according to the custom of this people. Before their conquest by the
Spaniards, it formed the principal aliment of the Mexicans. They held
the cocoa tree in such estimation, that its kernel served as current
coin, and this custom even now remains.”--HUMBOLDT.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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