The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
At last, Rome began to have them built, under the reign of Tarquinius
Superbus, about 630 years before the Christian era. They were solid
constructions, immoveable, and very like those of the present
day.[IV-44] Men were employed to keep up the necessary degree of heat;
and their useful profession (thanks to the strange caprices which so
tyrannically rule the social hierarchy) became one of the vilest and
most sordid occupations in the capital of the world.[IV-45] These ovens
were ordered to be built far away from all edifices, in order to prevent
accidents by fire;[IV-46] an excellent precaution, where so many
incautious and merry old gossips came daily to bake their bread.
Once there, those worthy plebeians amused themselves by giving full
scope to their noisy fun, slandering their neighbours freely and
charitably, telling each other all the little scandal they had picked up
here and there, among the good souls in their neighbourhood. Hence these
public places of labour and incessant babbling were called the “gossip
bakehouses.”[IV-47]
These joyous meetings continued until the arrival of Greek bakers, 170
years B.C., who followed the victorious armies of the republic on their
return from Macedonia.[IV-48] These new operatives effected a complete
revolution in the art of making bread: they reformed the taste of their
masters, and, by degrees, the proverbial frugality of the conquerors of
the universe gave way to the exquisite researches and wonderful
delicacies of those whom they had subdued.
The Romans perceived the importance of perpetuating the talent of these
strangers, and converting it eventually into a national industry. With
these views, they gave them Roman colleagues, and subsequently they were
formed into a college, or sort of association, which no member could
quit on any pretext whatever. The son followed his father’s profession,
and he who married the daughter of a baker became one himself.[IV-49]
Sometimes one of these privileged artisans was raised to the dignity of
senator, as an honour to his colleagues; but in that case he was
required to abandon his fortune to the person who took his place; he
might, however, decline the dignity, and remain at his
kneading-trough.[IV-50] All alliances with gladiators and comedians were
interdicted them; and the law decreed that the delinquent guilty of such
dishonour should be first scourged, then banished, and that his property
should be confiscated for the benefit of the community.[IV-51] Finally,
the prodigal baker was assimilated with the dishonest bankrupt, and
expelled the college.[IV-52]
The above details on some of the dispositions of the law regarding this
interesting corporation, sufficiently prove the importance that the
Roman government attached to it, and wished it should always maintain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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