The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Very often leaven was procured from dough just made. A piece was taken
from the mass previous to salt being added; it was then left to turn
sour, and might be used the next day.
The celebrated naturalist who supplies these details, tells us that, in
his time, the Gauls and Spaniards, after having made a drink from wheat,
saved the scum to raise the dough, and that their bread was the lightest
of all.[IV-58]
It would be difficult to form an idea of the prodigious luxury which
Rome introduced into an aliment so common, and of such universal use as
bread. Its name, its form, and flavour indicated the various ranks of
society to which it belonged.[IV-59] There was the senator’s bread, that
of the knights, of the citizens, of the people, and that of the
peasants.[IV-60]
Let us go together under the vast galleries supported by those
magnificent arcades.[IV-61] The _ediles_ have preceded us; they are
visiting the shops;[IV-62] it is the _Forum Pistrinum_, or bread-market.
The year is good: a _septier_ (five bushels) of wheat is only
twenty-five shillings,[IV-63] and provisions of all kinds abound in
Rome. Foreigners, also, are here, attracted by curiosity; for Vespasian
is preparing to deposit with solemnity the spoils of Jerusalem in the
temple of Peace.[IV-64]
In the middle of the inclosure you see the statue of Vesta, the goddess
worshipped by bakers.[IV-65] In the front, and round the gallery, those
open stalls are loaded with a number of round loaves of the same form
and weight: they are all five inches in thickness; the top is divided by
eight notches--that is to say, they are first divided across, and the
four parts are again subdivided.[IV-66] These lines are made in the
dough, so that they may be more easily broken.
The Roman gentry and shopkeepers give the preference to this sort of
household bread, simply composed of flour, water, and salt.[IV-67]
You perceive, here and there, several baskets, full of heavy biscuits;
they are called _autopyron_; it is a coarse, black food, composed of
bran mixed with a little flour, and made expressly for the dogs and
slaves.[IV-68]
Do you see that colossal-looking man, with enormous limbs, who is
walking about with an air of stupidity, and whose small head is covered
with scars? The dealers know his profession, and one of them offers him
the _athletæ’s_ bread; it is kneaded, without leaven, with soft, white
curd cheese, and is a coarse, heavy food, which that class of people
seem to partake of with great delight.[IV-69] That stout baker before us
occupies two of the most spacious shops in the market, on the left of
the statue; he is one of the richest members of the corporation, and is
the principal purveyor for the camp and army. Those large sacks, placed
before him with so much symmetry, contain the _buccellatum_ biscuit, or
dried bread for the troops.[IV-70]
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