The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
In default of esculent qualities (which it certainly does not possess),
the ancients recognised in purslaine many admirable virtues,[IX-82]
which are not acknowledged in the present day. The internal use of this
plant, also its external application, cured the bite of serpents, wounds
inflicted by poisoned arrows, and infallibly neutralized the effects of
poisonous drinks.[IX-83] But, alas! purslaine is not now what it was
formerly; for it is hardly permitted to appear by the side of one of our
fresh white lettuces.
SORREL.
Sorrel is a polygenous plant, and grows throughout Europe amidst the
grass fields. The Romans cultivated it in order to give it more
vigour,[IX-84] and ate it sometimes stewed with mustard, and seasoned
with a little oil and vinegar.[IX-85]
BROCOLI.
Drusus, son of Tiberius, was so passionately fond of the brocoli, which
Apicius induced him to eat, that he was more than once severely
reprimanded by his father on the subject.[IX-86] It is true that the
celebrated Roman epicurean displayed so much art, and gave such
delicious flavour to it, that this dish alone would have been enough to
establish his reputation. In fact, brocoli has always been appreciated
by connoisseurs; and Glaucias, who passed his life in meditating
seriously on the perfectibility of culinary ingredients, said: “That
nothing could be better than this vegetable, boiled and suitably
seasoned.”[IX-87]
This was the method of preparing it at Rome: they used only the most
tender and delicate parts of the brocoli, which were boiled with that
extreme care the artist always devotes to this first operation; and,
afterwards, when the water had been well drained off, they added some
cummin seed, pepper, chopped onions, and coriander seed--all braised
together, not forgetting, before serving up, to add a little oil and
sun-made wine.[IX-88]
ARTICHOKE.
A young and unfortunate beauty had the ill-luck to displease a
vindictive and irascible god, who instantly metamorphosed her into an
artichoke.[IX-89] This poor girl’s name was Cinara. Although she had
become a bitter plant she preserved this sweet name, which the moderns
have strangely modified. Our readers, who eat artichokes with so much
indifference, will, perhaps, sometimes lament this poor victim of a
blind resentment.
This plant was well known to the ancients; the hilly regions of Greece,
Asia, and Egypt were covered with it;[IX-90] but the inhabitants made no
use of it as an aliment, and it remained uncultivated.[IX-91]
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