The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
It would be rather difficult to trace the precise period when it was
first introduced into Italy. All we know is, that it grew there more
than half a century before the Christian era, in the time of
Dioscorides, who mentioned it.[IX-92] It appears, nevertheless, that
hardly any one troubled himself about artichokes, or their esculent
qualities, up to that time; but the wealthy, about a century after,
began to appreciate them, and Pliny, in one of his jesting whims,
reproaches the rich with having deprived the lower classes and _asses_
of a food which nature seemed to have destined for them.[IX-93]
This vegetable was then very dear,[IX-94] for it did not succeed, and
was subsequently given up. It was so far forgotten that in the year 1473
it appeared as a novelty at Venice;[IX-95] and towards the year 1465 it
was brought from Naples to Florence, whence it passed into France in the
sixteenth century.[IX-96]
Galen[IX-97] looked upon the artichoke as a bad food.[IX-98] Columella
sung its praise in his verses; he recommended it to the disciples of
Bacchus, and forbid the use of it to those who were anxious to preserve
a sweet and pure voice.[IX-99]
This plant, whatever may be in other respects its estimable qualities,
does not please every one equally well; its bitterness and unpleasant
odour keep it at a distance from numerous palates--perhaps because too
many allow themselves to be prejudiced by deceitful appearances. Here
are two very ingenious methods by means of which a trial might be made
to overcome, or lessen, the defects it undoubtedly has, and which we can
but deplore:--
Artichokes will become mild by taking care to steep the seed in a
mixture of honey and milk.[IX-100] They will then exhale the most
agreeable perfume, particularly when this seed has passed three days in
the juice of bay leaves, lilies, or roses.[IX-101]
Having quoted the authority, we give the recipe for what it is worth.
Until the result of this experiment is known, artichokes may be eaten
raw, with a seasoning of hard eggs chopped in very small pieces, garum,
and oil.[IX-102]
If you prefer a sharper sauce, mix well some green mint with rue, Greek
fennel,[IX-103] and coriander; add, afterwards, some pepper, alisander,
honey, garum, and oil.[IX-104] They are also eaten boiled, with cummin,
pepper, gravy, and oil.[IX-105]
“It is well known under what form artichokes, either raw or cooked,
appear on our tables. The best way to preserve them is to half cook
them, separate the leaves from the fur, and preserve the fleshy part,
called _the bottom_, and throw them, still warm, in cold water, to make
them firm. That operation is called _blanchir_. They are laid afterwards
on hurdles, and put four different times in the oven, as soon as the
bread is taken out. They become then very thin, hard, and transparent,
like horn, and return to their original form in hot water. They must be
kept free from damp.”--PARMENTIER.
POMPION.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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