The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
In times of popular tumult this root was often transformed into an
ignominious projectile, with which the mob pursued persons whose
political opinions rendered them obnoxious to _the majority_, as we
might say in the present day.[IX-169] As soon as calm was
re-established, the insulting vegetable was placed in the pot to boil,
and afterwards eaten with oil and a little vinegar.[IX-170]
The Romans preserved radishes very well, by covering them with a paste
composed of honey, vinegar, and salt.[IX-171]
HORSE-RADISH.
“By Apollo!” cried, mournfully, a philanthropic and gastronomic Greek,
“one must be completely mad to buy horse-radish, when fish can be found
in the market.”[IX-172] So thought the philosopher Amphis. And at Rome,
as in Greece, this reviled and despised root hardly found a place on the
table of the poor, when anything else could be had.
There were several serious causes for this fatal proscription: this
plant was found to be bitter, stringy, and of difficult
digestion;[IX-173] it was looked upon as a very common food;[IX-174] the
lowest class alone dared to feed upon it; the opulent were therefore
compelled to exclude it from the number of their dishes. And again,
certain strange customs, authorised by the Roman law, contributed
greatly to make the horse-radish an object of horror and detestation; so
true it is, that the manner in which objects are associated with our
ideas determines almost invariably our love or hatred for them.
Nevertheless, all the species of this vegetable (and there were five in
number, distinctly mentioned by Theophrastus[IX-175]) ought not to have
been condemned so severely. The Corinthian, the Leiothasian, the
Cleonian, the Amorean, and the Bœotian, were so many distinct and
separate species, each of which possessed its own peculiar property and
quality.[IX-176] The last-named, with its large and silky leaves, was
tender, and had a sweet, agreeable taste.[IX-177] The others, not so
good, perhaps, were wholesome and nourishing, and their natural
bitterness never failed to disappear, when the seeds were allowed to
soak for some time in sweet or raisin wine before they were
sown.[IX-178]
Shall we now mention the properties the horse-radish possessed, and
which ought to have been sufficient to establish its reputation, if
prejudice were not both deaf and blind?
Take, fasting, some pieces of this beneficent and despised root, and the
most inveterate poisons will be changed for you into inoffensive
drinks.[IX-179]
Would you have the power to handle and play with those dangerous
reptiles whose active venom causes a speedy and sure death? Wash your
hands in the juice of horse-radish.[IX-180]
Do you seek an efficacious remedy for the numerous evils which besiege
us unceasingly? Take horse-radish,--nothing but horse-radish.[IX-181]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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